Cross the Eglinton River via the wire walkway, turning right to follow the track on the east bank of Mistake Creek. Cross the stream to the west bank after an hour to a clearing on the far side. Climb through bush to open flats and a further band of bush to the large flats at the head of the valley. The track is well marked and there are plenty of campsites in the upper valley.
A great ice line that holds ice into spring
Obvious line across to the north from U pass or from the flats on the north side of U pass. Walk 20 mins from the top of the waterfall slabs to the base.
Plenty of other cool lines to be climbed in this area
P1
Water Ice
WI3
90m
Pitch 1: Up the low angle ice to a nice flat belay spot (but note this collects I falling from above) WI2
Pitch 2: Straight up around or up the bulges to belay above the steep section WI3/4
Pitch 3: Fun, featured Ice to a hanging belay WI3
Pitch 4: Excellent lower angle ice to finish in the snowy gully. Bring a snow stake for the final belay then
Getting down: Pitch or solo up the snowy gully at the top then traverse right above the tops of the cliffs until the less steep terrain to walk down