Gained via a tramp up the Forbes River and a climb of the South Forbes Glacier
Gained via a tramp up the Forbes River and a climb of the South Forbes Glacier. Follow the glacier
until the rock buttress on the south side of the icefall is reached. Climb the buttress to reach the upper
slopes and the col. A couloir on the true right of this buttress can also be used given sufficient snow.
Descent to Separation Stream can be tricky in late season if the icefall in the lower Separation Glacier
is cut off, and a poor alternative route involving some short steep scrambling and loose rock exists on
the true right. Separation Col also provides access to routes on the South Face and South West Ridge
of D’Archiac, rather than approaching from the Godley River
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club