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Separation Col

Type
Altitude
2256m
Part of

Separation Col can be used to cross between the Godley and Havelock valleys using Separation Stream (route 8K) and the South Forbes. From the Havelock side it provides access to routes on the south and east aspects of Mt D’Archiac, rather than approaching from the Godley River.

Lat/lon
-43.470238,170.589008, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX17 050 841
Approach

From the South Forbes: Grade II, 2+. Follow the South Forbes Glacier until the rock buttress on the south side of the icefall is reached. Climb the buttress to reach the upper slopes and the col. A couloir on the true right of this buttress can also be used given sufficient snow.
Descent to Separation Stream can be tricky in late season if the icefall in the lower Separation Glacier is cut off, and a poor alternative route involving some short steep scrambling and loose rock exists on the true right.

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Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
CW Alps 2009 (Geoff Spearpoint, Yvonne Cook, CMC)
UUID
 
241fe86a-9128-47be-8d8f-9eef3147af88