This mountain is the highest peak between the rest of the Aoraki/Mt Cook region and the Kaikoura Range. Its size and location allows it to be seen from as far as Ashburton.
Those intending to climb Mt D’Archiac and/or neighbouring peaks or planning to cross Separation Col into the Godley region will need to use the Havelock Valley for access. Terra Nova Pass can also be used to access the Godley from the Havelock.
Four wheel drive vehicle access beyond Erewhon Station, at the head of the Rangitata River system, and some way up the Havelock, is possible, but access is dependent on the state of the rivers. For those on foot, cross the Clyde River after Erewhon Station and follow the north bank of the Havelock River to Freezing Point. Cross the Havelock River and continue to Mistake Flats Hut at the confluence of the Forbes and Havelock Rivers. This is an eight bunk DoC hut (~800m, grid ref: BX17 133 868) and is situated at the back of the flats near the beech forest. From Mistake Flats Hut to Separation Col allow 6-8hrs.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| North Ridge | ||||||
| ER | East Ridge | 3- | ||||
| South East Ridge | 3 | |||||
| South West Ridge | 3 | |||||
| The Bandaid Route (South Face) | IV,4 | |||||
| Desire (South Face) | 5,V,WI4 | 650m | ||||
| Lust (South Face) | 5+,V,5+,WI5 | 500m | ||||
| Trident Glacier Route (then West Ridge) | 3+ | |||||
| FitzGerald Stream Route |
Comments
You're a good man Nick. Thanks for keeping me in the loop.
Hopefully from the updated route description you can figure out where to put those dotted lines.
kind regards, Peter
Thanks Nick, i don't see it yet though. The route description and the grade needs to be changed to what I already posted, and the route marking on the pic in the Palman guide needs to be altered to follow the line that I described.
Cheers, Peter K-D
In reply to Thanks Nick, i don't see it by Peter Dickson
Hi Peter, I've updated the route description and grade for the Bandaid route as per your post. The pic hasn't been uploaded yet.
Cheers, Nick
The Bandaid route is marked incorrectly on the photo. That major right hand snow gully as shown would be the easiest line but it is exposed to falling ice.
The Bandaid route climbed on the central buttress, starting beside a block on the right side of the buttress that offers protection from falling ice. From here move up a left trending corner groove (crux 15) for a pitch of very sustained rock climbing. Continue up and left to gain the crest of a central rib. Follow the rib to the summit. (McLeod's crampon was held together by elastoplast tape).
Oh and our climb was a 4, not a 4- at all.
In reply to The Bandaid route is marked by Peter Dickson
Peter, I have added the Bandaid Route as per the guidebook. Feel free to modify.
Cheers
Nick