Whale Stream

(1 route)

All Whale Stream routes except those on the major Peaks (Dun Fiunary, Ferintosh)

Type: 
Valley
Access: 

Up the stream bed with multiple crossings - either from the highway, or obtain access from Ferintosh Station 03 4350512 to walk old farm track on true right. This, however, disappears after 700m, and is not worth hunting for again. Whale Stream Hut is also now non-existent. A mediocre bivvy rock exists on terraces on true right just below the forks; however better accommodation is found camping on the lovely flats just above the forks in the Northern branch (topo waypoint). Affords a great view of Ferintosh; arguably the most aesthetic peak in the range. 2-3 hrs to here.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.935132000000, 170.059955000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
IWC 12,12,14,17,15,15 100m
0
4bolts wire representing trad 3
A meandering trad route, climbed as an enjoyable access route onto the buttress. The central feature is a huge right-facing corner. Mainly solid rock, would benefit from some further cleaning of vegetation on the crux pitch. On the true left side of the North Branch; halfway between the forks and Ferintosh Peak, is a striking fin of rock, several pitches high, that eases into a prominent spur above. IWC climbs 2 pitches up the low angle lower fin, then 4 pitches in the crack / corner systems left of the fin.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11250m2Yes
 

Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above.

21250m2Yes
 

Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above.

3140mYes
 

From the left side of the ledge below the upper fin: climb up and left, around the left side of a large roof, then back right to belay below the enormous right-facing corner. Some loose rock. A harder, more direct bolted pitch now exists directly through the overlaps (unclimbed - 2022 summer project) - this pitch ends some meters right of the the P4 corner - an easy walk/traverse away, perhaps best to bump belay across if rope drag promises to be an issue.

4170mYes
 

Up the corner crack directly to a cramped belay in a bomb-bay alcove below a huge roof. Great climbing but needs further cleaning of vegetation.

5150mYes
 

Left out of the cave and through the roof via a crack/groove, then trend back right across the slabs (cracks) to gain the large corner against the fin. Follow this up to belay below a final steep wall.

6150mYes
 

Break up the steep wall on the right, dramatic features but surprisingly easy and exhilarating climbing. Belay on the narrow ridge crest above. From here, pitch across/down the ridge to a DBA where it steepens.. Rap the fin (closed project - DBAs and occasional protection bolts). 30m raps may be just adequate to get between rap stations, but no guarantees. The odd protection bolt between stations exists and may help.

Taichiro Naka, Pablo Borjas Von Bach, Ruari Macfarlane,
UUID: 
4212c664-c8f5-4056-9a69-49f5ac87cc12