Mt Brown

From the upper reaches of Bush Stream, plod up the scree slopes and scramble to the summit.

This route on the central buttress on the south face has gained a reputation as one of New Zealand’s classic alpine rock routes. It begins at a higher level than the surrounding rock. Steep, awkward strata, overhangs and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. The second half of the route follows a prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on the upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent but have been climbed direct (Bill McLeod, March 1996). Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention.

Beginning on a small block, climb a clean face on the left side of the south-east facing concave wall. Higher up, tend left to gain a grassy groove beneath the great black corner and head straight up. On reaching the terrace, head up ledges to gain the headwall. Follow the arrow-straight corner/crack system that runs on a slight diagonal the entire height of this wall. The rock is compact and solid, predominantly vertical, but can be damp in places. Requires a positive attitude.

The route ascends an obvious feature – ‘The Rocket’ – on the right side of the bluff. Immaculate rock, few options, small gear protection, and the top three pitches are sustained grade 20 climbing.

Climb the spur at BY15 654 394 through open beech forest to the tussock terrace (delightful camping). Follow the ridge, keeping the four tarns on your right, cut through the spur at BY15 633 414, and veer around to the summit knob.

Go up Freds Stream for 3.5km, climb the steepening tussock slopes to reach the alpine meadows, and plod to the summit.

As for Centrefire (in fact, we liked it more): amongst the finest climbing in the mountains. It exemplifies Ben Ohaus climbing - far from the road (but easily day-trippable), questionable from a distance... but spectacular holds and movement! This is superb single pitch crack is easily tacked onto an ascent of Actions Speak Louder, or A Thoughtful Pause.

1 minute into the walk-off upvalley from either route (if not carrying on for the complete 'Actions' over the towers/fangs above), a square-cut gully is obvious below with a square-cut corner crack up the edge of a giant flake on the right side. This is Afterthought. Scramble carefully down the gully and build a natural belay near the base. From the top, walk/scramble back along the crest of the gully to rejoin your backpack and descent route. Note that the entire giant rock flake/slab forming the corner is inherently unstable - one day it will no longer be there (however no obvious hollowness or signs of instability during FA). Large Stacked plates on the upper ledges require care with holds and arranging your ropes - but many visible in the photos were cleaned after photos taken.
Bring: Gear.

A nod to both Bill Mcleod, and the relationship status of one of the ascentionists. This route avoids the 'positive attitude' climbing required for the lower wall of Mandate (which appears rather green and runout), giving an enjoyable and rapid access to the terrace partway up Mt Brown, and the upper tier of Mandate and No More Words (both look excellent). The remainder if the route gives agreeable and somewhat exciting climbing to join Actions Speak Louder at the end of the neccessary difficulties (and optional walkoff).

Follow wall below Mandate up a grassy ramp/gut on the left to a buttress at the left side of the wall. Starting from a gully on the left, the route then trends right and up the clean face of the buttress - thin climbing on quality rock.
A direct start could easily be rap bolted from the first pitch (FA was lead bolted), extending the quality climbing by a pitch or so.
(The steep pillar beside the lower-wall chimney of Mandate also is striking and could form a fantastic route if bolted.)

Details (grade, pitches, length, number bolts) were not recorded at time and are poorly remembered, so your sense of adventure is preserved.
2-3 long pitches to the terrace (we think), past spaced bolts and gear. Scrambling leads to approx. 3 more pitches, mainly (all?) on gear. Descent is by scramble/walk off upvalley after crossing 'Actions' (or as for NMW / Mandate, if finishing by those routes).

Dave Brash and Steve Carr previously established several pitches of a new pitches into the scoop just right of the lower half of this route, although this wasn't completed to the terrace.