Mt Brown

(6 routes)

The central buttress on the south face of Mt Brown contains excellent quality rock, best viewed from the upper valley of Bush Stream.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2168m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.845700000000, 170.047000000000
NZMS260: 
H37 726 027
Topo50: 
BY15 626 410
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
South West Face II 2
0
From the upper reaches of Bush Stream, plod up the scree slopes and scramble to the summit.
Andy Macfarlane, 1995
ASL Actions Speak Louder IV 6 19 550m
1.02
wire representing trad 2
This route on the central buttress on the south face has gained a reputation as one of New Zealand’s classic alpine rock routes. It begins at a higher level than the surrounding rock. Steep, awkward strata, overhangs and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. The second half of the route follows a prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on the upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent but have been climbed direct (Bill McLeod, March 1996). Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 1995
M Mandate IV 6 20 450m
0
2
Beginning on a small block, climb a clean face on the left side of the south-east facing concave wall. Higher up, tend left to gain a grassy groove beneath the great black corner and head straight up. On reaching the terrace, head up ledges to gain the headwall. Follow the arrow-straight corner/crack system that runs on a slight diagonal the entire height of this wall. The rock is compact and solid, predominantly vertical, but can be damp in places. Requires a positive attitude.
Bill McLeod, Chris Warburton, January 1997
No More Words IV 6+ 20 400m
0
wire representing trad 1
The route ascends an obvious feature – ‘The Rocket’ – on the right side of the bluff. Immaculate rock, few options, small gear protection, and the top three pitches are sustained grade 20 climbing.
Bill McLeod, February 1995
South East Ridge I 1
0
Climb the spur at BY15 654 394 through open beech forest to the tussock terrace (delightful camping). Follow the ridge, keeping the four tarns on your right, cut through the spur at BY15 633 414, and veer around to the summit knob.
Noel Pullan, Diane Mellish, March 2002
North Face I 1+
0
Go up Freds Stream for 3.5km, climb the steepening tussock slopes to reach the alpine meadows, and plod to the summit.
First ascent unknown
UUID: 
7b3aab80-866b-4ad0-b053-9a18313c7f59

Comments

Three types of climbing on Mt Brown: scrambles such as South West spur; rock climbs such as Mandate, Actions Speak Louder; Ice climbs such as Leaning Tower, Gateway. Climbs on Mt Brown will be clustered by genre in the Ohau-Landsborough guidebook.