Mt Brown

From the upper reaches of Bush Stream, plod up the scree slopes and scramble to the summit.

This route on the central buttress on the south face has gained a reputation as one of New Zealand’s classic alpine rock routes. It begins at a higher level than the surrounding rock. Steep, awkward strata, overhangs and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. The second half of the route follows a prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on the upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent but have been climbed direct (Bill McLeod, March 1996). Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention.

Beginning on a small block, climb a clean face on the left side of the south-east facing concave wall. Higher up, tend left to gain a grassy groove beneath the great black corner and head straight up. On reaching the terrace, head up ledges to gain the headwall. Follow the arrow-straight corner/crack system that runs on a slight diagonal the entire height of this wall. The rock is compact and solid, predominantly vertical, but can be damp in places. Requires a positive attitude.

The route ascends an obvious feature – ‘The Rocket’ – on the right side of the bluff. Immaculate rock, few options, small gear protection, and the top three pitches are sustained grade 20 climbing.

Climb the spur at BY15 654 394 through open beech forest to the tussock terrace (delightful camping). Follow the ridge, keeping the four tarns on your right, cut through the spur at BY15 633 414, and veer around to the summit knob.

Go up Freds Stream for 3.5km, climb the steepening tussock slopes to reach the alpine meadows, and plod to the summit.