This route on the central buttress on the south face has gained a reputation as one of New Zealand’s classic alpine rock routes. It begins at a higher level than the surrounding rock. Steep, awkward strata, overhangs and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. The second half of the route follows a prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on the upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent but have been climbed direct (Bill McLeod, March 1996). Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention.
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IV 6 19
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 1995