Jagged Pk

Start up a steep chimney a short distance along the northern side of the buttress and stay close to the crest of the buttress for the rest of the way. Where steep, the rock is clean, solid and timeconsuming. This leads to the North Ridge, which is followed to the summit.

The obvious natural top to bottom line – a typical ice route, usually best in late winter. The climbing is straightforward in the lower sections with three distinct steps but steepens higher up, with little protection, and contains a rock step just below the Jagged-Upham Col. The route is subject to debris fall. From five to eight pitches may be needed, depending on conditions. This route is time-consuming and saw several attempts before it was successfully climbed.

Start up the Jagged-Upham couloir, climbing a short steep step below where the Whiplash Gully turns off to the right. Climb ice here or, if ice is thin, stay in the main Jagged-Upham couloir and take a steep, mixed ramp to Whiplash Gully. Continue up steep ice, which merges with a five-metre frozen waterfall. The upper couloir contains 60-degree ice with one short steeper section. After the steeper section aim for the top of Deep Throat Gully and the summit block of Jagged. The route can be time-consuming and the Grade is dependent on conditions.

A buttress of sound rock interspersed with loose argillite.

The first obvious gully north of the East Buttress averages 70-degree ice, but the sixth pitch has a 30-metre vertical ice step before the angle eases and the central icefields are reached. The Throat is the top section of the next gully to the north, a deeply gutted fissure in the upper face with an intimidating headwall. The first ascent went up rock on the left (south) side of the Throat. It is possible to cross the Throat at its entrance and continue up the right face over steep, broken ground. The route meets a col just below the summit, to the north of Jagged Peak. Sustained.

Follow a deeply-incised gully just to the right of Deep Throat. Climb steep ice and two 15-metre ice walls, several smaller ones and a very difficult 45-metre mixed pitch. Exit up Deep Throat.

Follow the last major gully before a prominent buttress dropping down to the Cameron Glacier. Climb several steep steps and frozen waterfalls. The final two or three rope lengths to the summit ridge involve unpleasant rock.

The next gully to the right.

From Jagged Col the ridge is steep but straightforward on the Jagged Stream side to about half height. From here gain the crest of the ridge and traverse three small gendarmes, separated by narrow ridges of loose rock, to the summit. The third gendarme is the crux.

A couloir on the North East Face leads from the Jagged Glacier to loose rock just below the summit. Often used as a quick descent route.

Possibly the easiest route to the summit. Head up Jagged Glacier (can be cut off late season) to gain the Lawrence divide at the foot of the North Ridge. Drop below the ridge on the Lawrence side until reaching a wedge-shaped gap, then climb easy couloirs on the Rakaia side back onto the ridge for the final few gaps and pinnacles to the summit.