Deep Throat

The first obvious gully north of the East Buttress averages 70-degree ice, but the sixth pitch has a 30-metre vertical ice step before the angle eases and the central icefields are reached. The Throat is the top section of the next gully to the north, a deeply gutted fissure in the upper face with an intimidating headwall. The first ascent went up rock on the left (south) side of the Throat. It is possible to cross the Throat at its entrance and continue up the right face over steep, broken ground. The route meets a col just below the summit, to the north of Jagged Peak. Sustained.