Jagged Pk

(11 routes)

-43.333033890000, 171.010657970000
J35 487 619
BW18 387 003
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
LB Lawrence Buttress 4
Start up a steep chimney a short distance along the northern side of the buttress and stay close to the crest of the buttress for the rest of the way. Where steep, the rock is clean, solid and timeconsuming. This leads to the North Ridge, which is followed to the summit.
Dave Gobey, R Baggerly, April 1972 (not to the summit).
JU Jagged-Upham Couloir 5
The obvious natural top to bottom line – a typical ice route, usually best in late winter. The climbing is straightforward in the lower sections with three distinct steps but steepens higher up, with little protection, and contains a rock step just below the Jagged-Upham Col. The route is subject to debris fall. From five to eight pitches may be needed, depending on conditions. This route is time-consuming and saw several attempts before it was successfully climbed.
Lindsay Main, Warwick Anderson, James Jenkins, Mike Franklin, November 1973
WL Whiplash 6
Start up the Jagged-Upham couloir, climbing a short steep step below where the Whiplash Gully turns off to the right. Climb ice here or, if ice is thin, stay in the main Jagged-Upham couloir and take a steep, mixed ramp to Whiplash Gully. Continue up steep ice, which merges with a five-metre frozen waterfall. The upper couloir contains 60-degree ice with one short steeper section. After the steeper section aim for the top of Deep Throat Gully and the summit block of Jagged. The route can be time-consuming and the Grade is dependent on conditions.
Tim Wethey, Lindsay Main, Mike Franklin, Daryll Thompson, August 1975
EF East Face
A buttress of sound rock interspersed with loose argillite.
John Stanton, Kevin Carroll, Dick Beetham, 1971
DT Deep Throat 5+
The first obvious gully north of the East Buttress averages 70-degree ice, but the sixth pitch has a 30-metre vertical ice step before the angle eases and the central icefields are reached. The Throat is the top section of the next gully to the north, a deeply gutted fissure in the upper face with an intimidating headwall. The first ascent went up rock on the left (south) side of the Throat. It is possible to cross the Throat at its entrance and continue up the right face over steep, broken ground. The route meets a col just below the summit, to the north of Jagged Peak. Sustained.
Mike Franklin, Darryl Thompson, October 1974
G2 Gully Two / Cargo Couloir 5+
Follow a deeply-incised gully just to the right of Deep Throat. Climb steep ice and two 15-metre ice walls, several smaller ones and a very difficult 45-metre mixed pitch. Exit up Deep Throat.
Lindsay Main, Don Cargo, November 1974
G3 Gully Three
Follow the last major gully before a prominent buttress dropping down to the Cameron Glacier. Climb several steep steps and frozen waterfalls. The final two or three rope lengths to the summit ridge involve unpleasant rock.
Dave Fearnley, Brent Davis
G4 Gully Four
The next gully to the right.
Dave Fearnley, Brent Davis
ER East Ridge 3-
From Jagged Col the ridge is steep but straightforward on the Jagged Stream side to about half height. From here gain the crest of the ridge and traverse three small gendarmes, separated by narrow ridges of loose rock, to the summit. The third gendarme is the crux.
Stan Conway, Tom Newth, Frank Gillett, April 1938
North East Face 2+
A couloir on the North East Face leads from the Jagged Glacier to loose rock just below the summit. Often used as a quick descent route.
Evan Wilson, Andy Anderson, Doug Brough, Stan Barnett (descended), December 1931
North Ridge 2+
Possibly the easiest route to the summit. Head up Jagged Glacier (can be cut off late season) to gain the Lawrence divide at the foot of the North Ridge. Drop below the ridge on the Lawrence side until reaching a wedge-shaped gap, then climb easy couloirs on the Rakaia side back onto the ridge for the final few gaps and pinnacles to the summit.
Evan Wilson, Andy Anderson, Doug Brough, Stan Barnett, December 1931
Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint, in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club