Skip to main content

Baby Buttress

Part of

This is the smaller 35-metre buttress immediately right of the Dragon's Tail. The bottom access track passes near the base of the buttress, with a short branch track going to the base. There is an anchor station at the top. Baby Buttress routes can be linked to The Edge of Reason or Gorse Escape on the Dragon's Tail via a short track.
The second bolt on Baby Bump is a double ring which makes it easy to get off for those with short ropes.

40 min
North East
Add Place Add Route


Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
10 10Baby Boom, 17 17 35m 8

Up the left side of the buttress. Start in a small black groove past two bolts (crux). The up on good holds past spaced bolts to a steeper section and then some cruisy vegetated stuff before the final juggy but loose overhang.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 35m
  • 8

11 11Baby Bump, 15 15 35m 8

Up the right side of the buttress. Formidable but juggy start past the first bolt to cruisy ground; then there’s a cruxy bit from an angled ledge up a short slab and wall to a small ledge. Ramble on up over a vegetated ledge and easy slope to the final flaky headwall. Up on some good holds to the anchor.

  • P1
  • 15
  • 35m
  • 8

12 12Baby Bend, 16 16 35m 9

Start just to the right of Baby Bump and head up past two bolts to a ledge. Move right past a third bolt around the corner then continue up past 4 more bolts to join Baby Bump at the ledge before the final steep section of the buttress.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 35m
  • 9

Lindsay Main

Ropes vary quite a bit in length of course, so I wouldn't recommend Leona's method unless you know what you're doing.
As there has been quite a bit of interest in these two routes I will convert one of the protection bolts into an abseil station at some point.

Thu, 30/05/2019 - 09:30 Permalink

60m rope came up slightly short on the abseil. It was ok... possible to down climb from the first bolt on the 17 but worth looping a sling through the bolt as an extra hand aid. Probably only 1.5 m off the ground so not too bad.

Tue, 28/05/2019 - 20:12 Permalink