Baby Buttress

(3 routes)

This is the smaller 35-metre buttress immediately right of the Dragon's Tail. The bottom access track passes near the base of the buttress, with a short branch track going to the base. There is an anchor station at the top. Baby Buttress routes can be linked to The Edge of Reason or Gorse Escape on the Dragon's Tail via a short track.

The second bolt on Baby Bump is a double ring which makes it easy to get off for those with short ropes.

North East
Walk time: 
40 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
10 Baby Boom 17 35m
Up the left side of the buttress. Start in a small black groove past two bolts (crux). The up on good holds past spaced bolts to a steeper section and then some cruisy vegetated stuff before the final juggy but loose overhang.
Lindsay Main, 2018.
11 Baby Bump 15 35m
Up the right side of the buttress. Formidable but juggy start past the first bolt to cruisy ground; then there’s a cruxy bit from an angled ledge up a short slab and wall to a small ledge. Ramble on up over a vegetated ledge and easy slope to the final flaky headwall. Up on some good holds to the anchor.
Lindsay Main, 2018.
12 Baby Bend 16 35m
Start just to the right of Baby Bump and head up past two bolts to a ledge. Move right past a third bolt around the corner then continue up past 4 more bolts to join Baby Bump at the ledge before the final steep section of the buttress.
Felix Collins 2023


Ropes vary quite a bit in length of course, so I wouldn't recommend Leona's method unless you know what you're doing.
As there has been quite a bit of interest in these two routes I will convert one of the protection bolts into an abseil station at some point.

60m rope came up slightly short on the abseil. It was ok... possible to down climb from the first bolt on the 17 but worth looping a sling through the bolt as an extra hand aid. Probably only 1.5 m off the ground so not too bad.