Dragon's Tail

Somewhat superseded by the next route, as it follows the weaknesses (and therefore vegetation), with very little protection. Start up the slab adjacent to the vegetated crack, and at some point move left to the arete, which is now protected by the bolts of the next route. There is an old anchor station about two-thirds of the way up.

A modern take on Mussel Factory Girls. Start at the base of the slab and head leftward into the vegetated niche. Then move out left on to the arete and follow this to the anchor (about 32 metres). For the second pitch continue up the arete past the old MFG anchor bolts to the top of the pinnacle.

Start at the base of the slab as for On The Edge. Up over ledges to a bolt on the left; step right through a steep section to the overhang. Around to the right and then left onto easy ground with the belay anchor. Second pitch up very easy ground.

Start on the black rock slightly further right. Follow sloping ledges and small protrusions heading slightly rightward until the terrain steepens abruptly. Pull up on absurdly good jugs to a tricky denouement where smaller holds are required for a move; then up easily across the low-angled slab heading left to the two-ring anchor station. About 7 bolts. Finish up one of the other routes.

A long one-pitch route. Start in the gully right of the slab and climb black rock up a short corner (crux) to a ledge; past vegetation to another ledge and corner and on up to an easy slab below the overhang. Break through on the left in the corner (high bolt); followed by straightforward slab climbing with spaced bolts to a final bulge. Manoeuvre past this slightly rightward to good holds, and cruise to the anchor chain. Nine bolts.

Starts further up the gully. Some easy terrain leads to a couple of steep bulges with slopey holds, followed by an easy slab up to the overhang. The route goes up the right side with some delicate moves stepping up. After 35 metres the route merges left into the finish of RTD.

Starting further up the gully, above the huge chockstone. Step left onto the wall and climb the slab beside the arete. At about 15 metres move on to the arete and climb slightly on the right side to gain the small bulge; then easily to the anchor station.

Direct route from the gorsy gully to the anchor station. Climb up the chimney a few metres and clip the first bolt. Work out how to transfer on to the wall and you’re on your way into the crux, with the climbing rapidly easing, and the bolt spacing increasing proportionately.

Very short route directly from the col to the pinnacle summit, with one bolt. Good moves past the bolt over a small bulge. Some impressive pockets are encountered.

Chimney route in the gully and around the block to the col. Two bolts on the face to the right of the chimney.