Takes an easy sneak onto the most dominant rib on the NF. Can be climbed as rock or mixed route depending on conditions. From the traverse from Wright col / Esquilant towards Pluto, head up towards the largest steepest rock wall on the West Peak (facing the biv). At the base, follow an easy snow gully angling up right, gaining the highest rib on the North Face at half- height (around right of gendarmes - walk behind these). Follow this (scrambling, sometimes exposed) on convoluted gullies and corners right of the crest, finishing on two easy roped mixed pitches to top out high on the East Ridge (a rock corner, then a snow gully with ice step to a final 5m stemming chimney). A single rope, an ice screw or two and a light rock rack are sufficient. Descent options include Wright-Robertson couloir, Traverse to E Peak and standard NF descent, or possibly NW ridge or W face of W Peak.
Feels like a route from the early era. Rock surprisingly reasonable, although not as excellent as they made out in the 30's!
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
- Alpine (Commitment) III
- 400m
