Natural pro requiredPitch 1 (25m, Grade 18) - Start a little to the right of the toe of the buttress, trending right as you ascend, while choosing the easiest-looking crack system. The rock on this pitch is excellent but flaring cracks mean it is marginally protectable; it may take some smaller cams & nuts. Steeper lines might offer better protection. Belay from the ledge at the top of the pitch - cams are useful as options for protection exist but are limited.
Pitch 2 (50m, Grade 15) - The rock on this pitch is chossy. Angle up and back left above the ledge, following the obvious weakness in the face, then up. This pitch does not have many solid options for protection. Good belay options available at the top.
Pitch 3 (35m, Grade 16) - The rock on this pitch is good. Go straight up, bridging to avoid strenuous moves. This pitch is easily protectable with link cams, cams and nuts. An easy exit to the left avoids a small roof above and steep slab to the right.
Above this point it is an easy scramble to the ridge. At the top of the scramble, climb directly to the ridge, rather than taking a collapsing, loose gut on your left (which leads directly to the summit).
- P1
- 18
- Alpine (Technical) 5+
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+
- 25m
- Trad
Start a little to the right of the toe of the buttress, trending right as you ascend, while choosing the easiest-looking crack system. The rock on this pitch is excellent but flaring cracks mean it is marginally protectable; it may take some smaller cams & nuts. Steeper lines might offer better protection. Belay from the ledge at the top of the pitch - cams are useful as options for protection exist but are limited.
- P2
- 15
- Alpine (Technical) 4+
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-
- 50m
- Trad
The rock on this pitch is chossy. Angle up and back left above the ledge, following the obvious weakness in the face, then up. This pitch does not have many solid options for protection. Good belay options available at the top.
- P3
- 16
- Alpine (Technical) 4+
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-
- 35m
- Trad
The rock on this pitch is good. Go straight up, bridging to avoid strenuous moves. This pitch is easily protectable with link cams, cams and nuts. An easy exit to the left avoids a small roof above and steep slab to the right. Above this point it is an easy scramble to the ridge. At the top of the scramble, climb directly to the ridge, rather than taking a collapsing, loose gut on your left (which leads directly to the summit).
