Speight Buttress

Type

Part of

Mt Speight is not often (if ever) visited by persons purely interested in climbing on rock. It hardly attracts day visitors, being a 6-hour tramp in from Klondyke Corner. But the 250m high Speight Buttress is blessed with some of the best quality rock in the national park (this all being relative, of course!).
Three prominent rock buttresses protrude into the Speight snowfield. Many more routes could be contrived on the day. The gullies between them are climbable in winter. Descent is by the North Ridge to the col at the head of the snowfield.

Aspect

North East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	North Icefield Couloir, II,4	II,4	0m	0
May be climbed in an icy winter via the narrow, tall (190m) and steep (45º–80º) couloir leading directly to the summit rocks from the head of the northern snow/icefield. The crux is met approximately 70m below the summit, where the ice/snow clings to an almost vertical rock-band and a cornice may exist across its head. Descend via the North Ridge. P1 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) II
	Left-hand Buttress, IV,5+,18,4+	IV,5+,18,4+	110m	0
Pitch 1 (25m, Grade 18) - Start a little to the right of the toe of the buttress, trending right as you ascend, while choosing the easiest-looking crack system. The rock on this pitch is excellent but flaring cracks mean it is marginally protectable; it may take some smaller cams & nuts. Steeper lines might offer better protection. Belay from the ledge at the top of the pitch - cams are useful as options for protection exist but are limited. Pitch 2 (50m, Grade 15) - The rock on this pitch is chossy. Angle up and back left above the ledge, following the obvious weakness in the face, then up. This pitch does not have many solid options for protection. Good belay options available at the top. Pitch 3 (35m, Grade 16) - The rock on this pitch is good. Go straight up, bridging to avoid strenuous moves. This pitch is easily protectable with link cams, cams and nuts. An easy exit to the left avoids a small roof above and steep slab to the right. Above this point it is an easy scramble to the ridge. At the top of the scramble, climb directly to the ridge, rather than taking a collapsing, loose gut on your left (which leads directly to the summit). P1 18 Alpine (Technical) 5+ Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ 25m Trad Start a little to the right of the toe of the buttress, trending right as you ascend, while choosing the easiest-looking crack system. The rock on this pitch is excellent but flaring cracks mean it is marginally protectable; it may take some smaller cams & nuts. Steeper lines might offer better protection. Belay from the ledge at the top of the pitch - cams are useful as options for protection exist but are limited. P2 15 Alpine (Technical) 4+ Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 4- 50m Trad The rock on this pitch is chossy. Angle up and back left above the ledge, following the obvious weakness in the face, then up. This pitch does not have many solid options for protection. Good belay options available at the top. P3 16 Alpine (Technical) 4+ Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 4- 35m Trad The rock on this pitch is good. Go straight up, bridging to avoid strenuous moves. This pitch is easily protectable with link cams, cams and nuts. An easy exit to the left avoids a small roof above and steep slab to the right. Above this point it is an easy scramble to the ridge. At the top of the scramble, climb directly to the ridge, rather than taking a collapsing, loose gut on your left (which leads directly to the summit).
	North Ridge Snow Chute, II,2	II,2	0m	0
May be ascended in winter via the broad snow and ice chute that joins the North Ridge about 150m north of the summit. An avalanche risk could exist on this route. The base of this chute is gained from the head of the northern snow/icefield just to the true left of the Speight Buttress routes. Descend via the North Ridge. P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) II
	Central Buttress, II	II	0m	0
Commences along a line of weakness traveling left to right, then proceeds to climb stepped rock to join the North Ridge. P1 Alpine (Commitment) II
	Right-hand Buttress, IV,5+,18,4+	IV,5+,18,4+	120m	0
Pitch 1 (20m, Grade 18) - Start centre-right of the right-hand buttress toe. The first 20m is sparse on protection (micro wires and small nuts very handy), good quality rock. Pitch 2 (40m, Grade 16) - This pitch has good protection available (cams, nuts, wires). Pitch 3 (40m, Grade 14) - Good protection. Pitch 4 (20m, Grade 14) - Good protection. Scramble to north ridge. There are multiple options on buttress for other good climbs. P1 18 Alpine (Technical) 5+ Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ 20m Trad Start centre-right of the right-hand buttress toe. The first 20m is sparse on protection (micro wires and small nuts very handy), good quality rock. P2 16 Alpine (Technical) 5 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 4 40m Trad This pitch has good protection available (cams, nuts, wires). P3 14 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 40m Trad Good protection. P4 14 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 20m Trad Good protection. Scramble to north ridge.

Comments

Zxqyu

The description of Speight Buttress is not exaggerating when it says some of the best rock in the park. We were somewhat sceptical until we actually got onto the rock (the right buttress). Whilst we didn’t completely avoid the choss, the rock was highly enjoyable to climb and much better than any other rock I’ve seen in the Arthur’s Pass area. For me, the climb was worth the tough 7 hours’ approach via Harper Creek.
We only had a few medium sized nuts, a single cam and slings with us. We wold take some smaller nuts and possibly some more cams if visiting again.
Only 25 minutes down from the climbs, there are some excellent bivi spots. They are by the stream, have comfortable moss, and rocks that can be used for shelter.
We approached the area via Harpers Creek as the guidebook described the approach via the Greenlaw Creek as being the least friendly in the park.
Our first approach to the area was done at night and in fog. This contributed to the approach taking a tough 10 hours. Our approach on our second visit was also at night but took only 7 hours. We could possibly have done it in 6 hours if we had been doing it in daylight. If approaching for the first time, we recommend doing it in daylight as this will make the route finding much easier.
It would be enjoyable to take some rock shoes and spend a few days climbing some of the many different possible routes.

Tue, 01/04/2014 - 10:03 Permalink

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