Central Crags

(38 routes)

Central Crags includes the following walls...

-Twin Cracks
- Crucifix Wall
- The Gully
- Revenge of the Podge Wall
- Drug Abuse Wall
- Lunar Wall

Type: 
Area
Access: 

From the main parking area follow the track as for the Red arete then after crossing the dry riverbed veer left and follow your nose. The obvious feature is the large scree at the base . The Central Gully being the obvious gully rising from the apex of the scree.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
RP Revenge of the Podge 21 37m
0
8bolts wire representing trad
There is a small ledge to the R of the Central Gully at the top of the scree. It can be accessed from either the left end or front R. Magic Messiah and Revenge of the Podge start from this ledge. Start to the left of MM, beware of loose rock at the top on the easy section.
Brent Shears,1999
SS A Slovakian Nightmare 24 25m
1.02
8bolts
From the top of the first pitch of MM head right and up pink slab. Long moves on good holds lead to a thin and technical crux. Finish left to the second belay of MM.
Cory Green 2008
Thank God for Little Trees 15
0
wire representing trad
A long, alpine style route with 11 pitches. Start at the Gully (at the top of the scree). Climb the gully for the first three pitches to reach and then climb the ridge to the top.
Warren Bryson, Tony Corkery
T Tremor 20 ,21 30m
1.02
9bolts wire representing trad
A technical climb that leads up a slab and onto an overhang at the finish. Start on a ledge at the top of the scree.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12010m4No
 Climb up bolted slab to a sound ledge.
22120m5Yes
  Climb straight up the smooth wall, moving rightwards up and through the overhangs.
Brent Shears, 1999
MM Magic Messiah 14,19,14,20,2,17,14 220m
2.01
15bolts wire representing trad 1
A varied climb with some of the best crack climbing in the area. Start from the Revenge of the Podge ledge and head straight up from the anchor. The first four pitches are worthwhile after which the rock quality deteriorates markedly.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11425m5No
 Head straight up bolted slab and vegetated corner. Climb hanging corner to belay ledge.
21925m3Yes
 Climb past bolts and into left hand crack on natural pro to the anchors on a sloping ledge.
31420m5Yes
 Follow bolts up sloping vegetated corner and around to the right of a big tree to a large ledge and a stance below a steep slab.
42025m2Yes
 Climb past 2 bolts then up steep slab on natural pro, turning several overlaps along the way.
5250mYes
 Scamble up the edge of the scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar.
61745mYes
 Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.
71430mYes
 Climb easily in an amazing position. Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil.
Peter Dickson, Jo Kippax, Alex Palman, 1991
PD Poison Dwarf 20 12m
0
4bolts
Start at the right-hand side of the Gully (from the ground) and climb a narrow, brushed wall.
Kylie Wakelin, 1999
Ss Seamstress 18 ,19 20m
0
6bolts wire representing trad
From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11810m3Yes
 From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right.
21910m3No
 Technical climbing on sound rock.
Kylie Waklin
SC Santa's Chimney 17,17,14 100m
0
13bolts wire representing trad
Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix, 5m left of Tremor. Needs some large cams for the offwidth section. Offwidth full of trees and unclimbable as of January 2019
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11730m9Yes
 Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix 4m left of Tremor. Up to small ledge and right to a step down. Up the left line to belay in a big niche.
21730m2Yes
 Out left onto the arete passing 2 bushes to the wide crack. This is 120 - 130 cm and takes camelot size 4 -4.5 for 10 m the slightly smaller gear.
31440m2Yes
 Easy slabs to scree and up easy rock step to base of upper wall
John Hamilton, Murray Judge Dec 2012
SL Slipstream 17 45m
0
9bolts wire representing trad
Climb pitch 1 on Santa's Chimney then out right and climb R of the blunt arete (an older Mal Haskins project?) , 2 bolts when you leave the niche , small cams and wires with 7 bolts higher up.
Murray Judge, Feb 2013
The Frozen Pickle 20 20m
1.02
9bolts
From the top of P1 of Santas Chimney climb line of bolts left of the vegetated offwith. Thin moves through overlap to a technical finish.
Lewis Ainsworth 2019
JC Jagged Crack 17
0
wire representing trad
Directly above Revenge of the Podge. A smooth jamming crack with bridging.
Murray Judge Feb 2013
HF Hairline to Forty 23
0
wire representing trad
A fine crack needing thin wires and small cams.
Rob Connolly Feb 2013
Crafty Devil 16
0
wire representing trad
Further up the wall, the hand crack left of the third pitch of Magic Messiah, small to large cams.
Murray Judge Feb 2013
AB Angels Buttress 19
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Starts off the ledge at the top of Seamstress, face climbing on small gear.
Rob Connolly Feb 2013
BM Bonsai Master 18 29m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Steep slab to a crack at half height 5 bolts then small to med cams and wires. Avoid the loose flake on the right near the start
Murray and Bronwyn Judge March 13
Attribution: 
Photos. Clayton Garbes. RHS Jeremy Smit Crucifix topo Simon Middlemass

Places

Type Title Edit link
Wall Twin Cracks (4 routes)
Area Crucifix Area (8 routes)
Wall Drug Abuse Wall (4 routes)
Wall Lunar Wall (7 routes)

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