Type: 
Area

Central Crags includes the following walls...

-Twin Cracks
- Crucifix Wall
- The Gully
- Revenge of the Podge Wall
- Drug Abuse Wall
- Lunar Wall

Access: 

From the main parking area follow the track as for the Red arete then after crossing the dry riverbed veer left and follow your nose. The obvious feature is the large scree at the base . The Central Gully being the obvious gully rising from the apex of the scree.

Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
SC
17 ,17 ,14
0
100m
13X bolts
Natural gear required
 

Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix, 5m left of Tremor. Needs some large cams for the offwidth section

  1. Start at the top of the scree right of Crucifix 4m left of Tremor. Up to small ledge and right to a step down. Up the left line to belay in a big niche.
  2. Out left onto the arete passing 2 bushes to the wide crack. This is 120 - 130 cm and takes camelot size 4 -4.5 for 10 m the slightly smaller gear.
  3. Easy slabs to scree and up easy rock step to base of upper wall

John Hamilton, Murray Judge Dec 2012

SL
16
0
45m
9X bolts
Natural gear required
  Climb pitch 1 on Santa's Chimney then out right and climb R of the blunt arete (an older Mal Haskins project?) , 2 bolts when you leave the niche , small cams and wires with 7 bolts higher up.

Murray Judge, Feb 2013

T
20 ,21
1.02
30m
9X bolts
Natural gear required
 

A technical climb that leads up a slab and onto an overhang at the finish. Start on a ledge at the top of the scree.

  1. Climb up bolted slab to a sound ledge.
  2. Climb straight up the smooth wall, moving rightwards up and through the overhangs.

Brent Shears, 1999

15
0
Natural gear required
  A long, alpine style route with 11 pitches. Start at the Gully (at the top of the scree). Climb the gully for the first three pitches to reach and then climb the ridge to the top.

Warren Bryson, Tony Corkery

RP
21
0
37m
8X bolts
Natural gear required
  There is a small ledge to the R of the Central Gully at the top of the scree. It can be accessed from either the left end or front R. Magic Messiah and Revenge of the Podge start from this ledge. Start to the left of MM, beware of loose rock at the top on the easy section.

Brent Shears,1999

16
0
Natural gear required
  Further up the wall, the hand crack left of the third pitch of Magic Messiah, small to large cams.

Murray Judge Feb 2013

MM
14 ,19 ,14 ,20 ,2 ,17 ,14
2.01
220m
10X bolts
Natural gear required
1
 

This route climbs from the lower wall through to the upper wall. It is not often finished, as the rock quality deteriorates. Some bolts have been added to the first pitch to make it less run-out and safer for climbers who just want to do the first pitch at grade 14 but not carry on and do the harder pitches.

  1. Start by climbing the cleaned strip past three bolts.
  2. Climb past bolts and into left hand crack to the anchors on a sloping ledge.
  3. Follow the sloping vegetated corner to the right-hand side of a tree and a stance below a steep slab.
  4. Ascend the crack through the roof. Anchor at the tree.
  5. Scamble up the edge of the scree to the upper wall, beneath a prominent pillar.
  6. Climb poorly protected, flaky rock to the base of a pillar. Gain the pillar from the right side.
  7. Climb easily in an amazing position. Some fixed pro and a fixed sling for abseil.

Peter Dickson, Jo Kippax, Alex Palman, 1991

SS
23
1.02
25m
8X bolts
  Climb the first pitch of MM. Follow the bolted wall up to the right.

Cory Green 2008

JC
17
0
Natural gear required
  Directly above Revenge of the Podge. A smooth jamming crack with bridging.

Murray Judge Feb 2013

HF
23
0
Natural gear required
  A fine crack needing thin wires and small cams.

Rob Connolly Feb 2013

AB
19
0
3X bolts
Natural gear required
  Starts off the ledge at the top of Seamstress, face climbing on small gear.

Rob Connolly Feb 2013

PD
20
0
12m
4X bolts
  Start at the right-hand side of the Gully (from the ground) and climb a narrow, brushed wall.

Kylie Wakelin, 1999

Ss
18 ,19
0
20m
6X bolts
Natural gear required
 
  1. From the ledge at the top of Poison Dwarf, to the right.
  2. Technical climbing on sound rock.

Kylie Waklin

BM
18
0
29m
5X bolts
Natural gear required
  Steep slab to a crack at half height 5 bolts then small to med cams and wires. Avoid the loose flake on the right near the start

Murray and Bronwyn Judge March 13

Attribution: 
Photos. Clayton Garbes. RHS Jeremy Smit Crucifix topo Simon Middlemass
This place appears in: 
Rock Deluxe: South

Places

Actions
Wall Twin Cracks (4 routes)
Area Crucifix Area (8 routes)
Wall Drug Abuse Wall (4 routes)
Wall Lunar Wall (6 routes)
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