There is some good rock climbing on this mountain, notably the red pillars of the lower North West Ridge above the Reay Valley. More routes could be climbed here.
Access to the Reay valley is currently straightforward (February 2015). Walk up the Tasman Glacier then ascend a prominent, rightwards-leaning moraine ledge on the true right of the valley entrance (the true left looks impenetrable). Once in the valley, sidle upwards on the true right to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams where small campsites among snowgrass can be found. From Ball Shelter to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams takes about 6 hours.
Above the Murchison valley, access to the terraces beneath Novara Peak and Mt Johnson can be found up the slopes beside the Burnett Glacier. Between the Burnett and Lecky glaciers lie tussock basins with good campsites, but there are steep walls leading from these terraces down to the river.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | ASo Called Arthur King, 18 | 18 | 245m |  |
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Takes the skyline pillar (as viewed from the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams in the Reay Valley) via a series of corners and arêtes to the lower North West Ridge of Mt Johnson. Six or seven pitches of generally good quality rock with some exposed climbing, good protection and a really nice topout ledge before an easy-angled scramble to point 2235m.
Climb the right side of a pink column just left of an eroded grey streak to finish at a large belay ledge.
Trend left up slabby terrain to a shallow vertical corner. A couple of strenuous moves lead to a sloping ledge at the base of the main corner.
Up the main corner to a sitting belay ledge. Pitch could be split in two if climbing on 50m ropes.
Up a short face to an arête then follow a large crack diagonally up and right.
Climb the shallow and exposed rightward-trending corner.
Up a shallow, cracked groove then follow the prow to topout on a flat ledge with fantastic views of the valley and peaks above the Grand Plateau. |
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| North West Ridge, 2- | 2- | |||||
From the Reay Valley head up couloirs onto the upper North West Ridge then on to the summit. |
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| North East Ridge, 13,3+ | 13,3+ | |||||
Ascend to the saddle between Mts Johnson and Chudleigh either via the Lecky Glacier or the ridge on the left. From the saddle traverse a 2km ridge of jumbled rock with steps becoming increasingly harder. From a sharp notch just north of the summit, ascend final face of three pitches (crux 13) to the summit. |
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| South Face, 4 | 4 | |||||
Commencing from the Burnett Glacier, ascend the prominent rock rib leading to the summit. |
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| South West Ridge, 2- | 2- | |||||
Climb to summit between Mts Malcher and Johnson, then climb along the undulating ridge to summit. |
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| West Face, 2 | 2 | |||||
As for the Dorothy Glacier Route, but before the Dorothy Glacier is reached head straight up good, fairly easy rock to the summit. |
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| Dorothy Glacier Route, 2- | 2- | |||||
From the moraine hollow south of the Dorothy Stream, gain height, climbing past a waterfall, and traverse across onto the Dorothy Glacier. Ascend to col and up the North West Ridge. |
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Just added "So Called Arthur King" on one of the red rock pillars of the lower Northwest Ridge of Johnson above the Reay Valley. Plenty more scope for new routes on the other pillars.