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Ascend to the saddle between Mts Johnson and Chudleigh either via the Lecky Glacier or the ridge on the left. From the saddle traverse a 2km ridge of jumbled rock with steps becoming increasingly harder. From a sharp notch just north of the summit, ascend final face of three pitches (crux 13) to the summit.
North East Ridge
R Arbon, Lindsay Main, J B Waterhouse, Dec 1978