Type:
Rock
Description:
Takes the skyline pillar (as viewed from the confluence of the Reay and
Walpole Streams in the Reay Valley) via a series of corners and arĂȘtes to
the lower North West Ridge of Mt Johnson. Six or seven pitches of generally
good quality rock with some exposed climbing, good protection and a really
nice topout ledge before an easy-angled scramble to point 2235m. Descend by
heading south along the Northwest Ridge to a col and then dropping down scree
and easy-angled snow to the upper Reay Valley.
To access the route from the upper Reay valley, continue sidling on the true
right of the Reay Stream until a crossing point is reached a short way above
an impressive chasm.
Reference:
A
Pitch(es):
# | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 15 | 40m | Yes | ||||||||
Climb the right side of a pink column just left of an eroded grey streak to finish at a large belay ledge. | |||||||||||
2 | 16 | 40m | Yes | ||||||||
Trend left up slabby terrain to a shallow vertical corner. A couple of strenuous moves lead to a sloping ledge at the base of the main corner. | |||||||||||
3 | 18 | 60m | Yes | ||||||||
Up the main corner to a sitting belay ledge. Pitch could be split in two if climbing on 50m ropes. | |||||||||||
4 | 11 | 30m | Yes | ||||||||
Up a short face to an arĂȘte then follow a large crack diagonally up and right. | |||||||||||
5 | 15 | 40m | Yes | ||||||||
Climb the shallow and exposed rightward-trending corner. | |||||||||||
6 | 11 | 35m | Yes | ||||||||
Up a shallow, cracked groove then follow the prow to topout on a flat ledge with fantastic views of the valley and peaks above the Grand Plateau. |
Grade:
15 ,16 ,18 ,11 ,15 ,11
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
245m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
1
Ascent:
Nick Black & Nick Douglas, February 2015
UUID:
68e977ee-c768-4dc2-81f3-0f3df8b3f18f
Comments
Good to see a decent topo and
Good to see a decent topo and good descriptions added.