Langdale Buttress

Type

Part of

Langdale Buttress is an outcrop of excellent rock located at about 2320m at the top of the Langdale Glacier, at the foot of the Mt Chudleigh’s North West Ridge. Most routes are several pitches long, but there are a couple of one-pitch offerings.

Caption

Langdale Buttress, January 2017

Rights credit

David Lewis

Aspect

North West

Lat/lon

-43.580456,170.271864, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX16 7973 7111

Approach

The best way to access the buttress would be to leave the Tasman Glacier at Reay Stream, then make your way past Pt 1801 and Pt 1954 to the Langdale Glacier. Access from the lower Beetham also looks straightforward.

Accessed from

Haupapa Tasman Glacier

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
A	AMark Time, 16	16	120m		0
The long blunt arete to the left. P1 16 120m Trad
B	BTax Returns, 20	20	25m	4	1.02
P1 20 25m 4 Trad Amazing rock. Double bolt belay.
C	CRed Rocket, 17	17	25m		1.02
P1 17 25m Trad More great rock. Double bolt belay.
	Gorilla Warfare, 20	20	28m	1	0
P1 20 28m 1 Trad On the Tax Returns wall is a technical corner climb to a roof (protected by a bolt). Could place most of a double rack the gear is that good. Save some small nuts for the last few moves.
	People Smuggling, 18	18	25m		0
P1 18 25m Trad The right-most of the four routes in the Tax Returns area, and left of Purists Lament. More info required (the grade is a guess).
	Purists Lament, 18	18	100m	13	0
A four-pitch sport route that climbs the left edge of the “Amp-hour Buttress”. Take 13 draws and a 60m rope.The grade is a guess. “All anchors stainless and rings, none of this fixed nuts and pitons bullshit. Superb climbing on exceptionally high quality rock.” – Nick Craddock P1 18 100m 13
D	DBeggar for Punishment, 16	16	150m		0
Little information is available about the original ascent. Equipped with fixed anchors for 30m abseils in January 2017. P1 16 150m Trad
	The Offering, 19	19	191m	10	1.02
Very good to superb quality rock. Scaled, bolted and redpointed by Mt Cook Ski Club. Take 10 quickdraws and a 60m rope. P1 17 40m 10 Start on the right of the arete, some slabby moves left around the corner to good holds. Bypass the first double bolt anchors to a large ledge. P2 12 20m Straight up ridge on low angle terrain. P3 14 25m 5 Step left onto face, good climbing on good rock. P4 17 28m 8 Great face climbing, with a steep finish on juggy holds. P5 19 28m 10 An impeccable pitch on five-star orange slab. Move left off the belay to gain the slab, move upon rails over the small roof, amazing moves and the pitch isn’t over – continous grade 19 to the anchor. P6 19 28m 10 Climb up and left around the roof on good holds and side pulls, continue up thought provoking climbing with multiple crux sections. P7 18 22m 7 Great climbing on a prominent arête/hanging block, steep off the block and commit to the roof, climb up and left to break the roof, easy climbing to the top.
E	ERed Right Hand, 18	18	250m		0
Looks like a great outing. The grade is a guess. P1 18 250m Trad
F	FThe Big Red Engine, 17	17	200m		0
First ascended in seven pitches. P1 17 200m Trad