Langdale Buttress is an outcrop of excellent rock located at about 2320m at the top of the Langdale Glacier, at the foot of the Mt Chudleigh’s North West Ridge. Most routes are several pitches long, but there are a couple of one-pitch offerings.
The best way to access the buttress would be to leave the Tasman Glacier at Reay Stream, then make your way past Pt 1801 and Pt 1954 to the Langdale Glacier. Access from the lower Beetham also looks straightforward.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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A | AMark Time, 16 | 16 | 120m | ||||
The long blunt arete to the left.
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B | BTax Returns, 20 | 20 | 25m | 4 |
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Amazing rock. Double bolt belay. |
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C | CRed Rocket, 17 | 17 | 25m | ||||
More great rock. Double bolt belay. |
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Gorilla Warfare, 20 | 20 | 28m | 1 |
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On the Tax Returns wall is a technical corner climb to a roof (protected by a bolt). Could place most of a double rack the gear is that good. Save some small nuts for the last few moves. |
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People Smuggling, 18 | 18 | 25m | |||||
The right-most of the four routes in the Tax Returns area, and left of Purists Lament. More info required (the grade is a guess). |
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Purists Lament, 18 | 18 | 100m | 13 |
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A four-pitch sport route that climbs the left edge of the “Amp-hour Buttress”. Take 13 draws and a 60m rope.The grade is a guess. “All anchors stainless and rings, none of this fixed nuts and pitons bullshit. Superb climbing on exceptionally high quality rock.” – Nick Craddock
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D | DBeggar for Punishment, 16 | 16 | 150m | ||||
Little information is available about the original ascent. Equipped with fixed anchors for 30m abseils in January 2017.
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The Offering, 19 | 19 | 191m | 10 |
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Very good to superb quality rock. Scaled, bolted and redpointed by Mt Cook Ski Club. Take 10 quickdraws and a 60m rope.
Start on the right of the arete, some slabby moves left around the corner to good holds. Bypass the first double bolt anchors to a large ledge.
Straight up ridge on low angle terrain.
Step left onto face, good climbing on good rock.
Great face climbing, with a steep finish on juggy holds.
An impeccable pitch on five-star orange slab. Move left off the belay to gain the slab, move upon rails over the small roof, amazing moves and the pitch isn’t over – continous grade 19 to the anchor.
Climb up and left around the roof on good holds and side pulls, continue up thought provoking climbing with multiple crux sections.
Great climbing on a prominent arête/hanging block, steep off the block and commit to the roof, climb up and left to break the roof, easy climbing to the top. |
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E | ERed Right Hand, 18 | 18 | 250m | ||||
Looks like a great outing. The grade is a guess.
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F | FThe Big Red Engine, 17 | 17 | 200m | ||||
First ascended in seven pitches.
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Images
Dave Lewis
Nick Cradock
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