Put this on your list. From Malte Brun Pass, pick a line up the beautiful red rock of the broad lower ridge. The lower part of the ridge is made up of several sub-ridges that eventually lead into the main ridgeline around half height. Don’t climb too far right unless you want steeper rock. After 300m the ridge narrows and relents, but the rock quality decreases somewhat.
The lower half of the ridge is equipped (2017) with double bolt anchors to allow for 30m abseils. This line can be climbed directly (crux grade 12–13). If descending the ridge, the anchors are easy to find if you stay near the crest, unless the ridge is covered in snow. One of the upper abseils involves a slightly awkward leftwards traverse to avoid a gully. An intermediate bolt has been placed to assist with the traverse.
- P1
- 10
- Alpine (Commitment) II
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
