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Mt Haidinger

Type
Mountain
Altitude
3070m
Part of
Main Divide
Lat/lon
POINT (170.1996679 -43.5513666)
Topo50
BX16 738 741
Accessed from
Tasman Glacier
Fox Glacier Te Moeka o Tuawe
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Places

Type Name Alert
Face West Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 East Face Route, 3 3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

Climb the ridge immediately north of the Haast Glacier, overcoming a final large bump to reach the Upper Haast Glacier. From here the route heads up the snowface onto the South Ridge. Other more difficult routes may exist to the right on the upper face.
 East Spur, 3+ 3+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

This consists of a 400m buttress of relatively loose rock, dropping from the North Peak. The spur has been gained by two routes. i) Via a rock and scree rib separating the two arms of the Kaufmann Glacier. ii) Up scree and rock south of the Forrest-Ross Glacier to a small snow basin.

 East Ridge/North East Face, 3 3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

These short 350m routes are gained by climbing scree slopes and a rotten ridge onto Emas Dome, then dropping to Forrest-Ross Glacier névé. Cross the névé to gain either the ridge or the face that meets the Main Divide, some distance north of the North Peak.
11.66 11.66Pahiatua (Haidinger-Douglas Col), II,3,3 II,3,3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

From the Albert Névé ascend the snow slopes left of the West Face routes.

11.69 11.69West Ridge, 3 3 0m
0

From the névé, gain the rounded rib beside the west face, head up easy mixed ground, and trend out left to finish up the same summit gullies as the west face routes.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3
11.70 11.70Albino Merino, II,4,4 II,4,4 0m
0

The couloir between the West and South Ridges.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
11.71 11.71South Ridge, II,3,3- II,3,3- 0m
1.02

Very popular, and the most common way up Mt Haidinger. It is also the recommended descent route. The ridge is fairly straightforward (but beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the east face or up the couloir to the west. The ridge can be gained at many points. The usual routes are:
(i) The ridge can be gained at many points. The most elegant way lies up the arête which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit.
(ii) Along the divide from Governor Col, which involves a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

If climbed from Governor Col, a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west.
 PLEASE DELTE see 11.71 South Ridge, Variant 0m
0
  • P1

The most elegant way lies up the arête which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit.
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
12e3e73c-aa62-4bab-911c-31ccaf395b2f