|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
|While not the hardest ice line on Mt Taranaki it is certainly one of the longest and most atmospheric. Snow and ice stability on this north facing cliff are very fickle—best when conditions are lean. From the crater entrance to the Okahu Gorge, descend the gorge, close to West Ridge for about 70m. Iced grooves lead you to larger snow and ice ramps above, surmount the mid cliff to the left. Climb the next ramp, then follow a narrowing steep ramp that takes you left to Headbanger Ledge. The steep upper cliff can be climbed direct to the top of west ridge, or if not in condition, follow HB ledge into the crater.|
Iain Young, Dave Bolger. Winter 1998.