Great sea crag cliff in 1h driving distance from the Auckland CBD. Around 20 sport routes and a few nice trad routes (make sure you bring big number cams). Good and comfortable bolting. Grades 16-24. Stable (Basalt) rock. A good crag for beginners and intermediate climbers.
The scenery is pretty awesome - make sure you bring the camera. The crag is good climbing at any time of the year. Check out the tide table - the crag is split into 2 areas - low tide safes 30min walk to get to the 'other side'.
Access The crag is located about 90km north of Auckland, near Leigh. Take State Highway One to Warkworth, turning off to Leigh and Matakana.
Follow the road past Big Omaha to Ti Point.
Access is easy and straight forward. Park your car at the lower end (near the water) of Ti Point Rd. There is a little boat ramp and a public bathroom at the site. follow the 'Ti Point Coastal Walkway' (the walk is one of the most greatest NZ short coastal walks) till its end. There is a sign 'The End of the Track'. Its not so keep on walking. Make your way through some coastal rocks and boulders always following the coastline. Once you walk through 'The Arch' you know you're there.
The cliffs border private property, so stick to the coastline.
Updated and made more comprehensive from a guide written by Martin Broederlow and posted on www.freeclimb.co.nz