na
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
South

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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27 | Chad | 18 | 15m |
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Starts as an OW and takes a BD 5 +-4 before it narrows into a sustained hand crack.
When the crack tapers out, there are glorious jugs which take you to the DBA (with titanium horns).
Aim to the right of the split bolder and small Pohutakawa tree on the horizon to reach the anchor ledge.
Gear: Ideally cams BD size 0.75-5
One of each is fine but an extra 1 is useful if you don’t want to run out the jugs on the upper 1/3 of the climb.
Rick McGregor, Tony Martyr, Robbie McBirney 1974
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28 | Pin Ups | 22 | 20m |
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Start as for ‘Chad’ until it is
possible to traverse right to
reach the thin crack. Climb this
crack, hard to protect, belay as
for ‘Chad’.
Rick McGregor, Len Gillman 1980
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29 | IIIII | 24 | 20m |
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A direct start to ‘Pin Ups’. Climb
‘Chad’ for 1m then up the face
to the right past one bolt (rusted away as of Dec 2012) until
the thin crack is reached. Belay
as for ‘Chad’.
Ton Snelder and Clare Kermode, Sept 1987
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30 | Lobster | 18 | 20m |
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The straight crack, hardest
towards the top. Belay as for
‘Chad’.
Rick McGregor, Cado Avenali 1974
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31 | Burning Deck | 17 | 25m |
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Climb the crack to the overhang at 3m. Pull through and into the upper crack,
stepping at the top to easier ground. Belay as for ‘Chad’.
Rick McGregor, Cliff Smith, Robbie McBirney, Greg Pickford 1973
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32 | Davey Jones Rib | 17 | 20m |
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On the sea ward end of the point. Climb the left end of the rib pulling over the
overhang on good but brittle holds. Continue up the steep wall to an awkward
ledge. Climb the overhang above and easily to the top.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin 1975
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33 | Drip Dry | 13 | 20m |
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The crack at the end of the buttress nearest the sea. Climb using the holds on
the right to DBC belay.
Jeff Clark, John Watson 1972
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The Fang | 18 | 20m |
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The superb edge at the ‘The Point’ with a fang-like overhang
at about half height. If a sea is running the bottom
can be wet. Climb straight up the edge past four bolts to
a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle and John McKenzie, 1997
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UUID:
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