Chad Wall

(8 routes)


Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
27 Chad 18 15m
wire representing trad
Starts as an OW and takes a BD 5 +-4 before it narrows into a sustained hand crack. When the crack tapers out, there are glorious jugs which take you to the DBA (with titanium horns). Aim to the right of the split bolder and small Pohutakawa tree on the horizon to reach the anchor ledge. Gear: Ideally cams BD size 0.75-5 One of each is fine but an extra 1 is useful if you don’t want to run out the jugs on the upper 1/3 of the climb.
Rick McGregor, Tony Martyr, Robbie McBirney 1974
28 Pin Ups 22 20m
wire representing trad
Start as for ‘Chad’ until it is possible to traverse right to reach the thin crack. Climb this crack, hard to protect, belay as for ‘Chad’.
Rick McGregor, Len Gillman 1980
29 IIIII 24 20m
1bolts wire representing trad
A direct start to ‘Pin Ups’. Climb ‘Chad’ for 1m then up the face to the right past one bolt (rusted away as of Dec 2012) until the thin crack is reached. Belay as for ‘Chad’.
Ton Snelder and Clare Kermode, Sept 1987
30 Lobster 18 20m
wire representing trad
The straight crack, hardest towards the top. Belay as for ‘Chad’.
Rick McGregor, Cado Avenali 1974
31 Burning Deck 17 25m
wire representing trad
Climb the crack to the overhang at 3m. Pull through and into the upper crack, stepping at the top to easier ground. Belay as for ‘Chad’.
Rick McGregor, Cliff Smith, Robbie McBirney, Greg Pickford 1973
32 Davey Jones Rib 17 20m
wire representing trad
On the sea ward end of the point. Climb the left end of the rib pulling over the overhang on good but brittle holds. Continue up the steep wall to an awkward ledge. Climb the overhang above and easily to the top.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin 1975
33 Drip Dry 13 20m
wire representing trad
The crack at the end of the buttress nearest the sea. Climb using the holds on the right to DBC belay.
Jeff Clark, John Watson 1972
The Fang 18 20m
The superb edge at the ‘The Point’ with a fang-like overhang at about half height. If a sea is running the bottom can be wet. Climb straight up the edge past four bolts to a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle and John McKenzie, 1997