Chad Wall

Starts as an OW and takes a BD 5 +-4 before it narrows into a sustained hand crack. When the crack tapers out, there are glorious jugs which take you to the DBA (with titanium horns). Aim to the right of the split bolder and small Pohutakawa tree on the horizon to reach the anchor ledge. Gear: Ideally cams BD size 0.75-5 One of each is fine but an extra 1 is useful if you don’t want to run out the jugs on the upper 1/3 of the climb.

Start as for ‘Chad’ until it is possible to traverse right to reach the thin crack. Climb this crack, hard to protect, belay as for ‘Chad’.

A direct start to ‘Pin Ups’. Climb ‘Chad’ for 1m then up the face to the right past one bolt (rusted away as of Dec 2012) until the thin crack is reached. Belay as for ‘Chad’.

The straight crack, hardest towards the top. Belay as for ‘Chad’.

Climb the crack to the overhang at 3m. Pull through and into the upper crack, stepping at the top to easier ground. Belay as for ‘Chad’.

On the sea ward end of the point. Climb the left end of the rib pulling over the overhang on good but brittle holds. Continue up the steep wall to an awkward ledge. Climb the overhang above and easily to the top.

The crack at the end of the buttress nearest the sea. Climb using the holds on the right to DBC belay.

The superb edge at the ‘The Point’ with a fang-like overhang at about half height. If a sea is running the bottom can be wet. Climb straight up the edge past four bolts to a double bolt belay.