The Amphitheatre

The outside edge of ‘The Arch’, six bolts and DBC belay. If the tide is out you can start at the very base otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the arête and first bolt. The climb carries on straight up the arête, tending right around the third bolt.

The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face. Protection is poor.

Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.

The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.

Begin in the crack to the right (Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.

Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top, DBC.

The second edge right of ‘The Arch’ with four bolts. Climb past the first bolt to a ledge on the right then straight up past three more bolts to a double bolt belay.

The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.

Start below an area of very pocketed rock, (the spongy bovine encephalitis), just right of the third edge from ‘The Arch’. Five bolts. A very good climb. Climb just to the right of the first two bolts then up past three more to a double bolt belay.

The fist crack right of C.J.D., climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.

A rising traverse with six bolts, start as for CJD and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/ cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on J.E.M. and continue up J.E.M.

The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on J.E.M helps with otherwise lean protection.

The last edge before a loose gully. Seven bolts. A real classic. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt to clip a third and gain a ledge. Now climb straight up past four more bolts to belay on the pohutukawa.

Start as for J.E.M., and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and up to tree belay.

Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley (right of JEM)

The awkward crack right of the gulley. Move right at the top to ledges and belay.

Climbs the crack then straight up through the steep buldge. Either traverse over to Polly, International Terrorist's anchor just down and right after the ledge or continue up Fearless Freddie (20) above.

A buttress with two bolts. Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.

A fine second pitch to ‘Polly’ with three bolts. From the double bolt belay climb straight up past the first bolt. At the second bolt, traverse left to the edge, then climb straight up past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.

Immediately to the right of ‘Polly’ is this interesting route with three bolts. The original bolts have been backed up with stainless ones. Start up the same off-width crack, as for ‘Polly’, to clip the first bolt, then step right. From the third bolt move diagonally left to the double bolt belay.

A second pitch to ‘I Hear the Devil’ with three bolts. From the double bolt belay, move right and up easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Once on the crest climb the easy arête past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.

The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.

Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab. Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.