The Amphitheatre

Type

Part of

The loose block filled gulley can be used with caution, to access the anchors above the Amphitheatre between Sparmid & Wobble.

Aspect

West

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
10	10The Angry Sea and the Sky, 18	18	20m	6	0
P1 18 20m 6 The outside edge of ‘The Arch’, six bolts and DBC belay. If the tide is out you can start at the very base otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the arête and first bolt. The climb carries on straight up the arête, tending right around the third bolt.
9	9Gom Jabber, 18	18	25m		0
P1 18 25m Trad The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face. Protection is poor.
11	11The Angel of Calcutta, 17	17	20m	6	0
P1 17 20m 6 Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.
12	1252nd Symphony, 22	22	20m	6	0
P1 22 20m 6 The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.
13	13Heads and Tails, 16	16	20m		0
P1 16 20m Trad Begin in the crack to the right (Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.
14	14Hjar, 15	15	20m		0
P1 15 20m Trad Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top, DBC.
15	15The Whiskey Delta Trilogy, 23	23	20m	4	0
P1 23 20m 4 The second edge right of ‘The Arch’ with four bolts. Climb past the first bolt to a ledge on the right then straight up past three more bolts to a double bolt belay.
16	16Hobbledehoy, 16	16	20m		0
P1 16 20m Trad The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.
17	17C.J.D, 18	18	20m	5	1.02
P1 18 20m 5 Start below an area of very pocketed rock, (the spongy bovine encephalitis), just right of the third edge from ‘The Arch’. Five bolts. A very good climb. Climb just to the right of the first two bolts then up past three more to a double bolt belay.
18	18Diabolo, 15	15	20m		0
P1 15 20m Trad The fist crack right of C.J.D., climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.
19	19Queen of Hearts, 19	19	30m	6	0
P1 19 30m 6 Trad A rising traverse with six bolts, start as for CJD and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/ cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on J.E.M. and continue up J.E.M.
20	20Mihna, 21	21	20m	1	1.02
P1 21 20m 1 Trad The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on J.E.M helps with otherwise lean protection.
21	21J.E.M, 22	22	20m	7	1.02
P1 22 20m 7 The last edge before a loose gully. Seven bolts. A real classic. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt to clip a third and gain a ledge. Now climb straight up past four more bolts to belay on the pohutukawa.
22	22Sparmid, 14	14	20m		0
P1 14 20m Trad Start as for J.E.M., and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and up to tree belay.
	Pegasus, 23	23	8m	3	0
P1 23 8m 3 Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley (right of JEM)
	Wobble, 17	17	35m		0
P1 17 35m Trad The awkward crack right of the gulley. Move right at the top to ledges and belay.
	Well of Souls, 23	23	15m	3	0
P1 23 15m 3 Climbs the crack then straight up through the steep buldge. Either traverse over to Polly, International Terrorist's anchor just down and right after the ledge or continue up Fearless Freddie (20) above.
24	24Polly, International Terrorist, 24	24	15m	2	0
P1 24 15m 2 A buttress with two bolts. Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.
24	24Fearless Freddie, 20	20	15m	3	0
P1 20 15m 3 A fine second pitch to ‘Polly’ with three bolts. From the double bolt belay climb straight up past the first bolt. At the second bolt, traverse left to the edge, then climb straight up past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.
25	25I Hear the Devil Calling Me, 20	20	15m	3	0
P1 20 15m 3 Immediately to the right of ‘Polly’ is this interesting route with three bolts. The original bolts have been backed up with stainless ones. Start up the same off-width crack, as for ‘Polly’, to clip the first bolt, then step right. From the third bolt move diagonally left to the double bolt belay.
25	25Smilla’s Feeling, 20	20	15m	3	0
P1 20 15m 3 A second pitch to ‘I Hear the Devil’ with three bolts. From the double bolt belay, move right and up easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Once on the crest climb the easy arête past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.
26	26Futtick, 16	16	35m		0
P1 16 35m Trad The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.
	Fight or Slight, 21	21	15m	5	0
P1 21 15m 5 Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab. Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.

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UUID

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