Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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35 | 35Richard, 20 | 20 | 20m | 5 | |||
Immediately to the right of ‘The Fang’, the first route around ‘The Point’ - a great climb with five bolts. Climb straight up to the top of the pillar and the double bolt belay. |
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36 | 36Slapping Down, 21 | 21 | 20m | 3 | |||
A few metres to the right of ‘Richard’ is this fine route with three bolts. Above the first bolt, humans will probably wish to place some protection, probably a mid sized cam. Two more bolts lead to the top of the pillar and a double bolt belay. |
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37 | 37Parallel Cracks, 16 | 16 | 20m | ||||
Climb the twin cracks to a chockstone at half height. Finish up left to good ledges. Grade 17 variation climb the right hand crack direct, belay as for ‘Richard’. |
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38 | 38Man From Atlantis, 27 | 27 | 20m | 4 | |||
More than ten years after the first ascent I have no knowledge of a repeat. This comment is bound to produce one. A buttress several metres right of ‘Slapping Down’ with four bolts. Climb straight up to a double bolt belay. |
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39 | 39Sam Bullock, 17 | 17 | 20m | ||||
The crack through the pea pod, climb easily to the first bulge, over it then up the pea pod to the second bulge. Climb this and make an awkward move out onto a sloping ledge on the left. Up the corner crack above and exit left, belay as for ‘…Atlantis’. |
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40 | 40Pillock, 16 | 16 | 20m | ||||
The corner crack left of the gully. Climb the wide crack, exiting on large holds over some chockstones. Easier climbing leads to the top. |
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41 | 41Dorje’s Direct, 16 | 16 | 0m | ||||
Step left onto a steep slab below the only bolt. Then straight up into the crack with good pro. Continue up to the ridge where you can belay off the blocks or continue up to the DBC at the top of the gully. |
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42 | 42The Bounding Main, 14 | 14 | 15m | ||||
Climb the slabby rib, moving right from the ledge at 5m and climb up awkwardly for 3m till you can step back left onto the rib, on up to block belays or alternatively the DBC at the top of the gully. |
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Puffin, 19 | 19 | 0m | |||||
Located to the right of ‘The Bounding Main’. Next to the gulley it has a chain belay visible from the bottom of the face, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crackup through a bulging blocky section. Step right (crux) when the crack runs out and then up to the triple bolt belay. |