Mt Milne | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

2158m

Part of

Inconspicuous on its western aspects, Mt Milneʻs mighty south face and the Cleft it rises out of are one of the great features of the central Darrans. Milne is incorrectly marked on old topomaps as Mt Tarewai.

Lat/lon

-44.629886,168.027554, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

CA09 056 461

Accessed from

Cleft Creek

Tūtoko River

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Original Route		0m	0
P1 Climb the slabs of the northern side then follow a right-tending ledge system as it move into the centre of the face, avoiding the steep north-west aspects. This route is used as the common descent off Milne.
	Central Line, 15	15	0m	1.02
A groove in the centre of the West Face. P1 15 Trad
	Right-hand Route, 17	17	150m	1.02
A three-pitch route which follows a clean crack system 50m left of the South Ridge. P1 17 150m Trad
	South Ridge, 18	18	150m	3
An excellent and exposed three-pitch route. Starting from above the cleft, follow grooves up the ridge to the summit. P1 18 150m Trad
4	4The Map of Draughts, 23	23	400m	2.01
10 pitches. Start at the pedestal at the bottom of a left-tending staircase flake then move up and left to an overhang before straightening up for another six pitches. Exit just to the right of the summit. P1 23 400m Trad
5	5East Ridge via South Face, 19	19	400m	0
Five pitches to the ridge (19, 14, 15, 16, 16). Start in the centre of an attached pillar on the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack in middle of pillar (crux) to a comfortable belay on ledge. Traverse right into an open corner system then ascend three pitches on blocky rock to gain the East Ridge. 200m of grade 10-13 climbing along the ridge to summit. P1 19 400m Trad
6	6East Ridge, 13	13	0m	0
P1 13 Trad Nine pitches to the summit on good rock. The party descended the Cleft Creek side from just north of Milne to gain the buttress beside two gendarmes.

Images

Comments

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

0196b3df-9a4e-4f1b-be74-1102ee441baa