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East Face

Type
Face
Part of
Mt Tasman / Rarakiroa

The two recognised routes on directly on the East Face exist, but the line of ascent may alter owing to changing ice conditions. Both routes are threatened by ice avalanches.

Aspect
South East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
4.47 4.47To Silberhorn-Tasman Col, V,3+,4- V,3+,4- 0m
0

Up directly to the col between Silberhorn and Mt Tasman.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-
4.48 4.48Central Route, V,3+ V,3+ 0m
0

Up the slopes left of Syme Ridge, then veering left to finish directly on the summit.
Descended (in a storm) by David Hall, Duncan Hall, and John Pascoe, Dec 1938

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
4.49 4.49Leitner/ Von Terzi, V,3+,4 V,3+,4 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4

Up the slopes left of Syme Ridge, finishing on the north shoulder.
4.50 4.50Syme Ridge, IV,3+,3+ IV,3+,3+ 0m
1.02

Another classic, especially when combined with Silberhorn Arête (Route 4.46) to make a traverse of Mt Tasman. Access onto the base of the ridge is via:
(i) The slopes under the East Face (the ‘Mad Mile’), if option (ii) is cut off, this provides the most reliable option, but is prone to frequent ice fall.
(ii) A broad gully on the toe of the ridge itself—the best route if not cut off by crevasses or blank rock.
(iii) From the north-east side of the ridge, usually slightly safer than option (i), but things can change…
Then follow a narrow winding arête, which gradually broadens, to gain the north shoulder of Mt Tasman. From here follow the Main Divide, which narrows before rising to the summit.
Dan Bryant, Rod Syme, 1930
Bill McLeod, winter 1983

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+
Comments
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
05a4fee9-471d-41e6-bc08-0dc23b8b6d69