Another classic, especially when combined with Silberhorn Arête (Route 4.46) to make a traverse of Mt Tasman. Access onto the base of the ridge is via:
(i) The slopes under the East Face (the ‘Mad Mile’), if option (ii) is cut off, this provides the most reliable option, but is prone to frequent ice fall.
(ii) A broad gully on the toe of the ridge itself—the best route if not cut off by crevasses or blank rock.
(iii) From the north-east side of the ridge, usually slightly safer than option (i), but things can change…
Then follow a narrow winding arête, which gradually broadens, to gain the north shoulder of Mt Tasman. From here follow the Main Divide, which narrows before rising to the summit.
Dan Bryant, Rod Syme, 1930
Bill McLeod, winter 1983
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 3+
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+