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Mt Walter

Type
Altitude
2905m
Part of

The east face hosts the Tasman’s most accessible ice routes. They are only moderately long yet many inexperienced/slow parties have been benighted near the summit.
Good quality rock climbs on a sub-peak of Walter (Pt 2782m) can be accessed from Divers Col, and longer rock climbs on the main west face of Walter are accessed from the Elie-Walter Col.

Image
Caption

Mts Green, Walter and Elie de Beaumont from Hochstetter Dome, September 2016 

Rights credit
Paul Rogers
Lat/lon
-43.490103,170.322392, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX16 835 813
Add Place Add Route

Places

Type Name Alert
Face West Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
5.37 5.37South West Ridge, II,1+ II,1+ 0m
0

Climb to the plateau below Divers Col (crux), then ascend the snow ridge, veering around schrunds as required. This is the standard descent route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 1+

5.38 5.38Geriatric, IV,5 IV,5 0m
0

A 400m route starting just right and below where the major icecliffs begin to develop. The route follows a right ascending traverse for four pitches and then heads straight up steep ice onto the ridge 200m from the summit of Mt Walter.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 5

5.39 5.39Ice Crème, IV,5 IV,5 0m
2.01

Ascend an obvious gully for 300m, which broadens out to join the snowfields left of the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 5

5.40 5.40Curtains, IV,5 IV,5 0m
0

Climb a steep ice curtain, which leads into a broad gully. The gully leads left and finishes directly at the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 5

5.41 5.41Original, IV,4+ IV,4+ 0m
0

Ascend a steep couloir on the right side of the face for 150m, then traverse left into the same gully ascended by Curtains.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 4+

5.42 5.42North East Ridge, II,3 II,3 0m
0

This ridge is used either to access Elie de Beaumont when the Anna Glacier is cut off, or as a descent option after climbing the East Face. Previously, this ridge had good snow cover and straightforward travel almost year-round. However, over the last few years, because of its northern aspect the snow starts to ablate back to bare rock by early summer. There can be up to 150m of rock to descend or climb. If en-route to Elie, only commit to descending if you’re comfortable climbing grade 12–14 to get back up.
Heading north east from the summit of Mt Walter, the ridge is initially a fairly level, exposed snow arête. The ridge then becomes truncated as it drops down to the Elie-Walter col – i.e. it broadens out to form a vague triangular face above the broad col. The route stays near the true left side of this face, near the edge of the Spencer Face of Walter. A combination of abseiling and downclimbing will get you down without too much hassle. In dry conditions, don’t use the other side, down the edge of Mt Walter’s East Face – the rock is rotten there.
If climbing the ridge from the Elie-Walter col, start on the right side and follow your nose.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 3

Images

Comments
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
8a35e340-5de6-45ee-baf0-e72365fb8db9