Eyetooth

North Buttress (15,250m): This is the striking right-hand skyline of the upper face as viewed from the valley floor, comprising a high-quality slab of undulating schist. Start above the North Rib from the ledge extending across the East Face of Eyetooth at two thirds height. Climb the buttress, initially via cracks, then thread through an arch before mainly climbing the buttress crest (grade 13 with minimal protection; adequate belays difficult or impossible to arrange). High up, above another ledge across the face, follow cracks to the summit, finishing up a sickle-shaped corner (grade 15). Ruari Macfarlane 2021 (using a rope on the last pitch).

In December 2022, Ben Mangan and Ruari Macfarlane climbed a line directly below the North Buttress - calling it the North Rib - which they linked into the headwall pitches of what would become Enchantment.

The North Rib III+, 4 (16)
This prominent feature starts from the tussock and scree ledge which angle up to the Eyetooth - Actor saddle. Start easily at the prominent rib and then either step left to the leftmost of two stonking cracks (recommended - optional belay on the pedestal forming the top) or continue up easy ground right of the crest, then past a bolt and up a tenuous slab, angling sharply either left or right. Optional tension traverse. Continue along the crest (rope-stretcher if still as your first pitch), over a short but insecure and very runout step to build a belay. Easily pass the first large step on the ridge to the right. The next and larger step is climbed by a harder, very dangerously loose pitch on the left. This needs cleaning and a bolt or two. Above, the angle and grade begin to ease but anchors may require creativity. Ice axes may help. Tussock and a rock bulge on a broadening rib lead up to the transverse ledge.

Enchantment is a 15 pitch alpine rockclimb on Mt Eyetooth in the Blue River. Grade 24, or 20 A0. Alternatively, 17 for the upper 5p only.

Ruari Macfarlane first saw the face as a teenager in 2008. In December 2021 he returned with Kyle Walter,; the pair investigated the face and Ruari made a solo ascent of the North Buttress (15, 250m), using a rope for the final pitch.
In December 2022, Ben Mangan and Ruari Macfarlane climbed a line directly below the North Buttress - calling it the North Rib - which they linked into the headwall pitches of what would become Enchantment (pitches 9-15) at grade 17. These upper 7 pitches can be climbed independently by traversing left from the north ridge across the prominent ledge splitting the face. Stuart Duncan and Ruari finished Enchantment in March 2024, establishing pitches 1-3 and climbing to the ledge. A one-day ascent and a fully free ascent of Enchantment are yet to be completed; the Eyetooth headwall and neighbouring Haunted Spur offer several enticing opportunities for quality new routes - especially for climbers with a penchant on carrying heavy packs of batteries and bolts silly distances.

The lower section arguably earns one star for p2, p5 and 6; the upper section is superb rock, positions and features, high on an exposed chisel of top-quality schist with a stunning view, and warrants 2+ stars.

Enchantment (15p, 24, or 20 A0); (ALT: 5p,17 for just the upper 5-pitch headwall ['Superenchantment']). APPROX (see photos for detailed notebook topo scribbles): The route climbs the full East Face, from the Eyetooth- Actor Saddle ramp to near the summit. It is broken into two sections by the ledge across the East Face at two thirds height. Start a short way right along the large ledge angling from the valley headwall cirque to the Eyetooth-Actor Col. Left of a vertical/ overhanging cliff, scramble up a steep broken rib of red-ish rock then scrambling ledges up left, then up and far right, to the highest reasonable ledge high and right. Begin from here, following a few bolts for a short pitch finishing over the left side of a roof. A steeper, phenomenal and long bolted pitch (21) up a blunt rib leads to slabs above, where a long easy pitch or two lead up and far left past cracks and sparse bolts to an anchor at the base of the headwall. From here, a long pitch of sustained mossy difficulty (crux) - but mostly bolted - leads to a ledge. Walk left on this then a steep pitch - again, mostly bolted - leads to a wild finish, gaining a large shield of upper slabs. Despite good climbing and rock on this steep pitch, a large flake peeled off between visits taking several bolts with it. Up and left on the slabs for several pitches with the odd bolt to a waist-high block on the obvious transverse ledge bisecting the face (optional escape/access), further left than the north rib / north buttress. Above, upper Enchantment (Superenchantment) is a further seven classy pitches of slab and crack climbing on quality schist, up to Grade 17, to the top-out south of the summit. This begins by angling up and left across slabs to reach the giant obvious corner in the middle of the wall. Protection is a mix of bolts and gear; anchors on the first few pitches are bolted or mixed, becoming gear for the final few pitches.
There will be snow at the base of the wall and at the start of the climbs until at least January, requiring at least an ice axe.

Descent: there is a rap descent with bolted anchors on the north facing headwall on climbers' right of the North Buttress route. Walk a minute west from the summit and peer over the top of the face for the top anchors, by a 2m step in the ridge. It would be beneficial to upgrade these to 30m abseils from double bolt anchors (currently, abseils are 60m on single bolts). From here, cut through a basin of snow and giant schist features onto the flank above the Ngatau and traverse around to the Eyetooth - Actor Saddle. An alternative is to descend the West Ridge to 1700m where it is possible to drop down through a break in the cliff band. Then sidle around to the saddle.