North Buttress

North Buttress (15,250m): This is the striking right-hand skyline of the upper face as viewed from the valley floor, comprising a high-quality slab of undulating schist. Start above the North Rib from the ledge extending across the East Face of Eyetooth at two thirds height. Climb the buttress, initially via cracks, then thread through an arch before mainly climbing the buttress crest (grade 13 with minimal protection; adequate belays difficult or impossible to arrange). High up, above another ledge across the face, follow cracks to the summit, finishing up a sickle-shaped corner (grade 15). Ruari Macfarlane 2021 (using a rope on the last pitch).