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North Rib

Grade
IV,4,16
Length
400m
2
Natural pro required
Quality
0
First ascent
Ben Mangan, Ruari Macfarlane, 2022
Located on

In December 2022, Ben Mangan and Ruari Macfarlane climbed a line directly below the North Buttress - calling it the North Rib - which they linked into the headwall pitches of what would become Enchantment.

The North Rib III+, 4 (16)
This prominent feature starts from the tussock and scree ledge which angle up to the Eyetooth - Actor saddle. Start easily at the prominent rib and then either step left to the leftmost of two stonking cracks (recommended - optional belay on the pedestal forming the top) or continue up easy ground right of the crest, then past a bolt and up a tenuous slab, angling sharply either left or right. Optional tension traverse. Continue along the crest (rope-stretcher if still as your first pitch), over a short but insecure and very runout step to build a belay. Easily pass the first large step on the ridge to the right. The next and larger step is climbed by a harder, very dangerously loose pitch on the left. This needs cleaning and a bolt or two. Above, the angle and grade begin to ease but anchors may require creativity. Ice axes may help. Tussock and a rock bulge on a broadening rib lead up to the transverse ledge.


  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • 400m
  • 2
  • Trad

Comments
UUID
 
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