Waipapa cliffs are compact, fully-welded ignimbrite, with small edges lower down but becoming more pocketed near the top. The routes generally require balance, finesse and finger strength rather than raw power. Autumn to spring are the best times to visit as it can get very hot in summer, despite the bush below and pine trees above. Falling pines have created hazards in some parts of the crag. Access to the top of the cliff is difficult. Routes are equipped with bolt anchors for descending. There is a mix of sport and trad climbing, with some routes having a bit of both.
Climbing development
The Main Cliff was discovered by Kevin Barratt, who put up the first routes in 1999: “Finger of Fate” and “Side Winder”. Over the next few years climbers from Hamilton, Auckland, Rotorua and Wharepapa put up around 60 routes.
Earlier, Graeme Dingle, Corrina Gage and Andrew Cory paddled across the lake in 1981 and put up two climbs on a small outcrop opposite the road. Climbers have looked at the cliffs directly above the road but the rock there tends to be soft and friable.
Climbing restrictions
Do not climb on any cliffs in and around the powerhouse or carpark.
Getting there
Waipapa Dam is on the Waikato River. Take the Wharepapa to Mangakino Road (Waipapa Rd) for about 30 km south of Wharepapa South or 15 km north of Mangakino. Drive across the dam and park in the carpark on the far side of the powerhouse.
Crag access
- The Main Cliff areas are about 1 km down river from the dam carpark. Follow the sealed road beyond the gate and after about 200m veer left down a metal road, the start of the Waikato River bike trail to Mangarewa Bridge. At about the point the track heads away from the river above a small stream, a lightly marked route heads uphill to the cliffs.
- Lakeside Wall is about 1 km upstream on the lakeshore.
