The Arches | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Part of

Waipapa Dam

This great feature wall is home to some Waipapa classics.

Aspect

North

Approach

From the Millennium Wall head back along the track for about 15m and then scramble up onto the belay ledge below the big corner.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Seattle Rain, 22	22	8m	5	1.02
P1 22 8m 5 Balance moves up the wall to you reach the crack. Move left taking an exposed step onto the overhang, pull through then mantel onto the 1st Belay ledge of Mortality. (Pro: 5 Bolts).
	Popeye, 23	23	30m	6	1.02
So named because you will need to be fully armed to do the top move. P1 23 13m 5 Climb the wall and arete 2m left of the large corner. Eases off after the 3rd bolt then moves left at 5th bolt to DBC belay. Shares the last 2 bolts and belay of Morality P2 22 17m 6 Continue up the line of Mortality to the 2nd bolt, then move delicately right onto the slab and continue up till you reach the roof. Having gained the good hold on the lip make a big blind reach to get established in the groove, form here easy climbing leads to the DBC belay of Mortality. Twin ropes are advised, if not it maybe worth unclipping the 2nd bolt after you have clipped the 3rd, 25m abseil to ground. (Pro: 6 Bolts). Both pitch’s can be climbed in one on double ropes.
	Fire in the Sky, 30	30	25m	14	3
P1 30 25m 14 Start as for The Arches but head straight for the steepest, meanest part of the large overhang. Tackle this with kneebars and whatever else you have in your kit bag, then punch to the anchor on Popeye. James says it's the best hard route around these parts.
	Mortality, 22	22	31m	7	1.02
P1 17 15m 5 Climb up to the forth bolt on the Arches (see below) to where that route starts to break left. Traverse left at this point past two bolts on the narrow ledge then traverse left to a BDC belay around the next arete. P2 22 16m 7 Climb directly up the steep slab past three bolts to a large flake. Climb the right side of the flake and gain the groove above and slightly right (crux). Follow the groove to a DBC belay. (Pro: 7 bolts)
	The Arches, 18	18	35m	9	3
P1 18 35m 9 Climb the corner of the arch past 3 bolts then veer right onto the face then traverse horizontally across the wall about 2m below the roof. Belay on a small ledge on the right hand end of the face. The crux is the first few moves and there is a difficult move gaining the belay ledge. DBC belay and 25m abseil to ground. (Pro: 9 bolts)
	Gauche mais pas Maladroit, 18	18	20m	10	2.01
P1 18 20m 10 Climb the shallow corner and crack 3m to the right of The Arches corner then move onto the face (crux) and continue straight up, crossing the line of “The Arches” (NZ road code applies at intersection), to a two hook belay just below roof. (Pro: 10 Bolts)
	Hiroshima, 27	27	26m	11	1.02
P1 27 26m 11 An extension to Gauche mais pas Maladroit, through the roof.
	Three Steps to Heaven, 26	26	20m	9	2.01
P1 26 20m 9 The line up the right hand end of the Arch wall directly below the belay of The Arches. A frustrating move past the second bolt is followed by the crux at the 4 & 5 bolts, the climbing then eases off with a hard move to finish.
	Ben’s Big Day Out, 20	20	22m	3	0
P1 20 22m 3 Trad Five metres to the right of the Arch wall is another buttress. Scramble up onto the narrow belay ledge. Follow the two thin crack lines (RP size) to gain the next ledge at 5m height. Move left and follow the bolts up the corner then continue up the crack line above. At the top step right to the double ring bolt belay of Fingers Crossed. (Pro: RPs, Wires, CD, 3 Bolts)
	Fingers Crossed, 22	22	25m	4	1.02
P1 22 25m 4 Trad Start as for Ben’s Big Day but move right at the ledge making an awkward move to gain the hand crack. Climb the crack until it tapers out then move left to the bolt (crux). Follow the line of bolts to the top. Two ring bolt belay station, 25m abseil to ground. (Pro: CD, Wires, RPs, 4 Bolts)
	Game of Two Halves, 27	27	25m	4	0
P1 27 25m 4 The line immediately left of Fingers Crossed. Follow layaway crack line past 4 bolts, continue up the square arete to gain the small foot ledge and rest stance (avoid the dirty stuff out left). Pull right and kick off again up the thin slab to the ledge and DB belay .

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