The Wall of Fate is based around the prominent detached pillar (The Finger of Fate) although the first routes included here are before that section of wall and above an old slip.
Having got to the Arches part of the Main Cliff, follow a rough track back rightwards for about 30m.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Lost Art, 23 | 23 | 12m | |||||
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Spartacus, 21 | 21 | 16m | |||||
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Wolverine, 26 | 26 | 20m | 7 | ||||
The impressive wall is a classy 24 up to the final bulge, where a desperate and nasty crux awaits. |
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The Root, 18 | 18 | 25m | |||||
Climb the groove with a prominent tree root (use root as runners). Continue up the gnarly crack into the large right facing corner. Climb the face, using small wires for pro, with some delicate climbing to the DBC belay. (Pro: CD, Wires & slung roots) |
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No Country for Young Men, 18 | 18 | 30m | |||||
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Breaking Point, 22 | 22 | 15m | 10 | ||||
The arete left of Billy Bold. |
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Billy Bold, 17 | 17 | 12m | |||||
Ten metres right of the slip is a left facing corner crack system which finishes at a ledge at half height, this is the line of Billy Bold. Face climbing leads to the base of the corner crack. From here jam and layback the fist crack till you reach the ledge, DBC belay. (Pro: CD, Wires) |
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Quarry Climbing, 19 | 19 | 12m | 2 | ||||
Two metres to the right of Billy Bold and finishing at the same belay ledge is the line Quarry Climbing. Climb up past 2 bolts then follow the thin crack which widens to fingers then hands. DBC belay. Reminiscent of climbing at Mt Eden quarry and in true quarry style an ascent has been made without using the bolts. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wire, 2 Bolts) |
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Real Rock, 21 | 21 | 25m | 2 | ||||
Starts 3m to the right of Quarry Climbing on a ledge 2m above the track. Bridge and layback the corner then swing round onto the left arete and move up onto ledge. Follow the right facing corner crack to a large detached flake (A good but somewhat obtrusive rest can be gained by sitting atop of the flake). Follow the crack over steep ground then continue up past 2 bolts (crux). DBC (Pro: CD, Wires). |
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Sidewinder, 22 | 22 | 22m | 4 | ||||
Five metres to the right of Quarry Climbing and about 20m up is a large detached pinnacle. Sidewinder climbs up the outside of this feature. Start directly below the pinnacle up a set of twin cracks. Continue up the slanting crack to the right side of the pinnacle then step left round onto the front face (bolt). Climb obliquely left (hay, I just write the descriptions as they are given to me) onto the left-hand side then up past 2 more bolts before topping out on the summit of the pinnacle. DBC belay, abseil descent. (Pro: CD, Wires, 4 Bolts) |
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Penny Lane, 19 | 19 | 25m | |||||
Start up slab move right into corner. Climb corner till you get you hands on the ledge (crux), do not climb on to ledge but instead move left into crack system. Do not climb chimney system of finger of fate , climb the crack direct up to the belay of Finger of Fate. (Pro: Trad) |
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Finger of Fate, 17 | 17 | 25m | |||||
Climb the corner and then move left and climb the next short corner to the base of the pinnacle chimney. DBC Belay. (Pro: LCD, CD, Wires)
Climb the chimney and belay on top of the pinnacle. DBC belay, abseil descent.(Pro: Bolts) |
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Perfect Light, 21 | 21 | 25m | 5 | ||||
Start up the right facing corner of Finger of Fate breaking right at the first ledge to continue up the wall to the right of the thin crack. Climb into the right facing hanging corner breaking left 5m from the top up the steep face and wide crack. DBC belay abseil descent. (Pro, LCD, CD, 5 bolts) |
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Lats Rule Thinking, 23 | 23 | 30m | 9 | ||||
Starts just right of the large right facing corner of Finger of Fate. Climb the face and shallow grooves past 4 bolts (crux) then continue over easier ground past five more bolts to the left facing corner. Once through the corner follow the crack to the hanging tree and DBC belay, 30m abseil descent therefore double ropes needed. Sustained climbing and the top crack section is longer than it looks from the ground. (Pro: CD, Wires, 9 Bolts) |
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Scavenger, 24 | 24 | 30m | 9 | ||||
A line cleaned and partly bolted by Aaron who then abandoned the project when he shifted south. The circling buzzards could be seen for months over head before the line was finally picked off. Start three metres to the right of “Lats Rule Thinking”. Climb up the middle of the face past 3 bolts then pull over the small roof (crux). Move up and right (see note) then continue up the groove just to the left of the arete. Climb the short crack above (1 to 2 friend sizes) and top out on the small ledge, DBC belay. Bold but safe climbing. (Note. On the first ascent the 7th bolt of Lat Rule Thinking was clipped before the move right was made, double ropes req. (Pro: 9 bolts & CD) |
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Robin, 23 | 23 | 18m | 7 | ||||
Immediately right of Scavenger. Climb up blocky ground move right at the 5th bolt and mantel the ledge (crux). Climb the steep corner above with a difficult finishing move onto the belay ledge. DBC belay, abseil descent. To date the second pitch has not been climbed. (Pro 7 bolts). |
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Batman, 27 | 27 | 18m | 6 | ||||
The direct line of Robin. Strenuous start through the bulge to 2nd bolt. Bridge up twin cracks to 4th bolt then a thin move up and left with a big throw off, small crimps to ledge. Finish as with Robin. (Pro: 6 Bolts) |
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Slaughter is the Best Medicine, 31 | 31 | 25m | 9 | ||||
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Theropod, 27 | 27 | 18m | 5 | ||||
The bolted line immediately right of Batman (Pro Bolts) |
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Fossil Free Zone, 23 | 23 | 18m | 5 | ||||
The bolted line immediately right of Theropod (Pro Bolts) |
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Name Game, 21 | 21 | 20m | 7 | ||||
Starts 5m right of Batman at the lowest part of the cliff. Delicate climbing up face past 4 bolts leads to a difficult sequence at the left facing corner. (The only advice I’m allowed to give is, Move left). Continue up the corner to DBC belay. (Pro: 7 Bolts) |
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Yoda, 25 | 25 | 15m | 5 | ||||
Reasonably straightforward climbing to a distinct crux. |
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Lock ‘n’ Load, 24 | 24 | 10m | 4 | ||||
From the Name Game move up onto the narrow ledge that runs along the base of the cliff. In the middle of this face is Lock ‘n’ Load. Power straight up the middle of the wall to a DBC belay. Hard start with the crux at the 4th bolt. (Pro: 4 Bolts) |
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Lock ‘n’ Rock, 25 | 25 | 10m | 5 | ||||
Just right of Lock ‘n’ Load and starting just left of the Manuka tree is Lock’ n’ Rock. Climb the face then veer left and follow the diagonal break to the DBC belay of Lock ‘n’ Load. (Pro: 5 Bolts). |
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May Day, 16 | 16 | 10m | |||||
Start up Stealing Dad’s Rack and move left into the crack system. |
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Stealing Dads Rack, 17 | 17 | 15m | |||||
The crack and corner system 5m to the right of Lock ‘n’ Rock. Climb the groove and crack to the overhang, which is climbed using the triangular block. BDC belay, descent by abseil. (Pro: CD, Wires) |
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Its Not the Size, 20 | 20 | 9m | 3 | ||||
Just right of the groove of Stealing Dads Rack is a small buttress. Climb up and over the bulge to the ledge and DBC belay. (Pro: 3 Bolts) |
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Grit Pike Thin, 19 | 19 | 15m | |||||
Five metres to the right of “The Triangle”. Start up the slab past a bolt then move into the left facing corner. Climb the crack through step section onto the face then move up to the left facing corner. Once established in the corner (crux) continue up the crack to a DBC belay. Descend by abseil. Dave was going to climb the bottom slab without the bolt, inspired by “Hard Grit” but then Piked. (Pro: SCD, CD, Wires) |
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Forever 22 in the Gym, 18 | 18 | 15m | |||||
Just right of the “Grit Pick Thin” climb crack system. (Pro: Trad) |
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Natural Progression, 25 | 25 | 15m | 5 | ||||
The bolted line immediately above the fixed rope (Pro: Bolts) |