Acceptance and Loss

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
Approach from the beach immediately left of Poseidon Slabs. The best way to the base of the route that starts off the shelf above the beach is to head for the pine tree. Scramble up the rocky bank behind the tree and traverse back right through the bush to the rock face where there is a bolt on the wall from which you can belay. Alternatively you can scramble up rocky ledges right of the start and then traverse leftwards along a ledge to the base of the route.
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1160m7No
 

Up and right into a groove to a belay in the corner.

2170m9No
 

Move up above the belay to the bolt then swing out left across the hanging slab and up around the corner to a grassy ledge. Traverse left to a semi-hanging belay out on the point.

3170m7No
 

Great climbing up the exposed rib out right. Rappel from 3 to 2 then to the ground on a single 60m rope.

Grade: 
16,17,17
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
23
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Steve Carr, Chris Peckham 2015
Route Image: 
UUID: 
9a13b103-c265-4ebe-ad04-55df8c62febe

Comments

Have just completed this climb last night with my mate Erik. If you are thinking of attempting this then be prepared to deal with alot of gorse on the approach, unfortunately the fixed line was no longer there. The rock on the 1st 2 pitches are extremely unstable, a couple of microwave sized chuncks of rock fell out from under our feet. Countless hand hold also broke off. While doing the 2nd pitch just after the traverse, there is a crack, the rock could be moved by hand, so be extra careful. The 3rd pitch is great! Lots of good holds, plenty of great feet and by far the best pitch.

'Extremely' and 'countless'. Possibly a slight exaggeration Stclairsurfy. With 'all' the loose holds you pulled off, the route should be looking pretty good now!