Grade
17
9
Quality
First ascent
Steve Carr, Chris Peckham 2015
Located on
Topo ref
AaL
Approach from the beach immediately left of Poseidon Slabs. The best way to the base of the route that starts off the shelf above the beach is to head in behind the first trees along the beach and pull up the short fixed rope. Traverse back right to the rock face where there is a bolt with a short length of chain on the wall from which you can belay.
- P1
- 16
- 7
Up and right into a groove to a belay in the corner.
- P2
- 17
- 9
Move up above the belay to the bolt then swing out left across the hanging slab and up around the corner to a grassy ledge. Traverse left to a semi-hanging belay out on the point.
- P3
- 17
- 7
Great climbing up the exposed rib out right. Rappel from 3 to 2 then to the ground on a single 60m rope.
Comments
UUID
9a13b103-c265-4ebe-ad04-55df8c62febe
Hi, I just wanted to warn of some really loose rock on the 2nd rappel. We had a close call with someone knocking down a large rock, while there were others at the bottom. I would recommend simul rappelling or waiting for the first person to get well out of the way.
Have just completed this climb last night with my mate Erik. If you are thinking of attempting this then be prepared to deal with alot of gorse on the approach, unfortunately the fixed line was no longer there. The rock on the 1st 2 pitches are extremely unstable, a couple of microwave sized chuncks of rock fell out from under our feet. Countless hand hold also broke off. While doing the 2nd pitch just after the traverse, there is a crack, the rock could be moved by hand, so be extra careful. The 3rd pitch is great! Lots of good holds, plenty of great feet and by far the best pitch.
In reply to Have just completed this by Stclairsurfy
'Extremely' and 'countless'. Possibly a slight exaggeration Stclairsurfy. With 'all' the loose holds you pulled off, the route should be looking pretty good now!