Upper Pillars | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

These are the short pillars that are dotted abut the top of the ridge on the north side. There are numerous projects in progress. Climbs are from left to right, with double ring or V chain anchors (unless stated otherwise in the route description).

Walktime

30 min

Aspect

North East

Approach

Access is generally from the top track and by taking a side track across to the ridge. Unfortunately viewing the routes from the top will make to hard to ascertain exactly where you are. Alternatively one of the multi-pitch routes can be climbed and another route in this area added as a bonus.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
GS	GSGorse Slab, 13	13	30m	7	0
Below the finish of Pioneer Ridge. Abseil to the base of the slab and climb back up, finishing on the right side of the eggshell to the Pioneer Ridge anchor. P1 13 30m 7
	Bypass, 18	18	15m	4	0
P1 18 15m 4 A direct route from the ridge which meets Split Buttress on the rib after three of four bolts.
SB	SBSplit Buttress, 17	17	25m	6	0
From the lowest point of the slab climb towards the arete (crux); then easily to the top of the pillar. P1 17 25m 6
SI	SISpace Invader, 21	21	28m	10	1.02
A steepish start on heavily featured, funky rock, passing 4 bolts. This leads into the crux moves turning onto the slab. Continue up the easy slab, with spaced bolts to the top of the pillar, staying to the right of the arete to avoid hollow formations. P1 21 28m 10
FOB	FOBFACE OF BO, 19	19	17m	6	1.02
P1 19 17m 6 Access is via a track down from the ridge - it's hidden along the base of the cliff on the left. The anchor is quite a ways along the top of the rock, so be careful setting up the abseil. There is a belay safety at the base. The climb starts up the right edge, past the first bolt. then traverses left onto the face clipping second. Straight up from here on very interesting holds, heading slightly left at the top, where a slab top-out invokes feelings of Castle hill.
CBO	CBOCLIMB WITH YOUR BOOTS ON, 13	13	30m	9	0
P1 13 30m 9 Head down the "Face of Bo" track and continue downhill to the left. There are 2 bolts with hangers here only - this requires an anchor to be set up. Abseil the climb and have a blast climbing out this fun slab route - will put a smile on your face. There's a belay anchor at the base.
HD	HDHello Darkness, My Old Friend, 16	16	20m	3	0
P1 16 20m 3 Another winter late finish. On the slabby pillar opposite The Face Of Bo. A rough track goes down the side of the pillar. Start to the right among the gorse with easy climbing initially to diagonal runnels at the first bolt. Up past these (crux) to the second bolt and then increasingly easy but fun climbing to the anchor.

Comments

Lindsay Main

content_editor

Bolt numbers on these routes are a guess, but should be close enough.

Thu, 14/02/2019 - 20:56 Permalink

UUID

903fbc6a-a513-4297-8bfb-61231e81cac7