OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.Devil’s Gap, Dragon Crags and Dragons Lair are only open at weekends and on public holidays. You must register for each coming weekend by 7pm the Friday before. Full details are here.
Access is via a track down from the ridge - it's hidden along the base of the cliff on the left. The anchor is quite a ways along the top of the rock, so be careful setting up the abseil. There is a belay safety at the base. The climb starts up the right edge, past the first bolt. then traverses left onto the face clipping second. Straight up from here on very interesting holds, heading slightly left at the top, where a slab top-out invokes feelings of Castle hill.