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South East Face

Type
Part of

South East Face of Vampire Peak

Image
Aspect
South East
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 Notforustwo 5
1.02
2 Far From The Madding Crowd 5-
0
3 Nosferatu 6-
0
4 Bram Stoker 5-
0
5 Swiss Virgins 4+
0
Single and Searching 6,V,WI5,M6 500m
0
Twilight WI3
0
Comments
Peter Dickson

By the way that corner route marked as #5 in the pic would make an outstanding modern mixed alpine climb.
Most of the corner gets enough ice to climb easily, but the top pitch is overhanging on the right hand side of the corner. The ice there is thin or relatively non-existant. But a modern climber interested in mixed, and hooking on rock, would find this route an absolute delight. The last pitch is the crux. Its probably an Alpine grade 5 depending on conditions.

Wed, 21/09/2011 - 01:26 Permalink
Peter Dickson

Check with Carol Nash or Rob Blackburne but I believe that corner marked on the pic as route 5 is still unclimbed.

Considering it was graded 4+ my best guess is that Swiss Virgins climbs easier ground to the LHS on that upper glacial shelf.

Thu, 15/09/2011 - 18:08 Permalink
UUID
 
12ec2cea-3742-4eb4-b0e2-8b83e33f7dea