Nosferatu

Follow the gully that starts on the left side of the lowest rock buttress beneath the summit. This gully eases back after five pitches. Further up an obvious snow ramp leads left to gain the main summit gully. It appears that since the 2003 rockfall the snow ramp has been replaced by a near-vertical headwall of about two pitches. (A couple of options are indicated in the topo photo.) After this the angle eases and the gully continues to exit 30m left of the summit. The first ascent took fifteen pitches in all.