Natural pro requiredthis route has a single ring bolt access anchor on the top of the most
prominent lump on the top out ledge. rappel or scramble down to the top of
the route and descend to the water.
Alternatively paddle a boat to the bottom of the route marked with 'TE' at
the water line. climb the route and rappel back to the boat at the end of the
day.
- P1
- 21
- 45m
- 1
- Trad
Climb crack from water for 5 metres until the large crack heads off up and right. Continue straight up past the bolt at 15m and climb the thin (middle of the three) and sparcely protected weakness smearing and laying away. Follow directly up to a small ledged corner at the Double bolt belay.
- P2
- 21
- 55m
- 2
- Trad
Make some awkward moves, past two bolts & up the rounded slabby face. Follow the narrow intrusion up through very thin moves to more gear then run it out castle hill style to the belay scoop and a double bolt anchor.
- P3
- 23
- 25m
- 4
- Trad
Climb up the slab to the first cam runner under the overlap, then move left and up on tenuous underclings through crimps and onto a good rest below the first bolt.Head up to the roof and step delicately right to clip the first of two bolts protecting the crack/corner. Wide bridging up the corner will take you past another bolt and some permanent old rusty wires. Now lay away on steep ground and make a lunge to the ragged pinch on the skyline. Exit right to double bolt anchor
- P4
- 20
- 25m
- 3
traverse to the right, smear and pad your way up the bare slabby water runnel to a double bolt belay.
- P5
- 19
- 50m
- 3
- Trad
Climb the runnel past two bolts until the crack proper starts, continue easily up the crack and step right onto the face, pass one bolt and you'll find a double bolt belay.
- P6
- 18
- 50m
- 2
- Trad
Climb the slabby wall past a single bolt, follow a series of ramps and corners up past one more bsingle bolt crux and enjoy the easy angled scrambling to a double bolt belay on the ledge system that runs along the top of the route.
Etceterror is still unfinished and requires one more trip this year, 2016, to equip and climb it. I'll publish the route description by the end of April.
Cheers - Nick Flyvbjerg