North Face

(4 routes)

The are several good rock climbs on this face, best accessed from a camp by the lake (still shown as a snowfield on 260 and Topo 50 maps) to the north.
“Cragging around the lake was primo with clean and crystally granite. We did two easy routes (three pitches each). My God there is more to do here.” – Martin Wilson

Please remember how far west this area is and how quickly the rain can set in. The forecast is particularly changeable for these ranges and the camp sites are very exposed. Bring only 4 season tents and pack a Bivy bag to use in the tent if there is any chance of inclement weather.
Please do not open the stash barrel. The contents have been carefully dried and stowed to eliminate the chance of rot and the equipment is used for route development purposes. There is no food or fuel in the barrel, thanks.

Face (Alpine)

Best accessed by helicopter from Milford. 2016 price is $1050 rtn for the 500.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Terrorfirma 19 ,21 ,21 ,15 220m
wire representing trad
Start at the toe of the buttress and climb the obvious weakness until you reach the top of the quartz topped pillar, step over the pillar to belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Start at the toe of the buttress and climb the obvious weakness until you reach the top of the quartz topped pillar, step over the pillar to belay.


Climb the vertical face skirting to the right of the large overhang to climb a semi groove onto the upper face, continue up the steep face above via a series of cracks and weaknesses. Belay on the left edge of the face.


Again climb the face over a small overlap via cracks and ledges first going right and then back left. Belay on the left edge of the face


Move off up the wall on easier ground climb a series of short corners to bely in a grassy bay.

Nick Flyvbjerg, Tony Burnell
Reign of Terror 16 ,18 ,20 ,18 220m
wire representing trad
This route ascends 20m right of Terrorfirma
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

See topo

Nick Flyvbjerg, Shelly Malkin 2010
War on Terror 19 ,21 ,18 ,18 ,20 230m
wire representing trad
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Rather than skirting to the left and up the gully there is a variation to this pitch which climbs at grade22 directly up the left side cracks on the obvious steep face. Scarily run out

Hugh Barnard, Martin Wilson, March 2008
Terribilita 21 ,21 ,23 ,20 ,19 ,18 250m
15bolts wire representing trad 1
this route has a single ring bolt access anchor on the top of the most prominent lump on the top out ledge. rappel or scramble down to the top of the route and descend to the water. Alternatively paddle a boat to the bottom of the route marked with 'TE' at the water line. climb the route and rappel back to the boat at the end of the day.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Climb crack from water for 5 metres until the large crack heads off up and right. Continue straight up past the bolt at 15m and climb the thin (middle of the three) and sparcely protected weakness smearing and laying away. Follow directly up to a small ledged corner at the Double bolt belay.


Make some awkward moves, past two bolts & up the rounded slabby face. Follow the narrow intrusion up through very thin moves to more gear then run it out castle hill style to the belay scoop and a double bolt anchor.


Climb up the slab to the first cam runner under the overlap, then move left and up on tenuous underclings through crimps and onto a good rest below the first bolt.Head up to the roof and step delicately right to clip the first of two bolts protecting the crack/corner. Wide bridging up the corner will take you past another bolt and some permanent old rusty wires. Now lay away on steep ground and make a lunge to the ragged pinch on the skyline. Exit right to double bolt anchor


traverse to the right, smear and pad your way up the bare slabby water runnel to a double bolt belay.


Climb the runnel past two bolts until the crack proper starts, continue easily up the crack and step right onto the face, pass one bolt and you'll find a double bolt belay.


Climb the slabby wall past a single bolt, follow a series of ramps and corners up past one more bsingle bolt crux and enjoy the easy angled scrambling to a double bolt belay on the ledge system that runs along the top of the route.

Tony Burnell, Nick Flyverg 2010
Martin Wilson, Nick Flyvbjerg