Natural pro required- P1
- 15
- Trad
On the South face. Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. 1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.
- P2
- 21
- Trad
3) 21. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof.
- P3
- 21
- Trad
4) 21. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar
- P4
- 15
- Trad
5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it. Descend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass.
From conversation with Jonathon it appears this may be slightly right of where marked in old topo .. i.e. it may be in the steeper overhanging orange wall.