The 300-metre-high south face of Taiaroa’s south peak rises steeply out of the Korako glacier approximately 300m right of Crampon Pass.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| West Couloir | |||||||
| Original Route | 0m | ||||||
On the South face. An easy scramble up a left-slanting groove and across ledges to the South Peak. |
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| 2 | 2Liquid Toasted Sandwich, 21 | 21 | 0m |  |
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On the South face. Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. 1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.
3) 21. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof.
4) 21. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar
5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it. Descend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass. |
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| Only the Righteous, 21 | 21 | 300m | |
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Takes prominent corner systems in the face right of LTS. Classy movement and cracks but mossy. See topo. (FYI after speaking with Jonathan Clearwater - first ascnesionist- it appears LTS probably is slghtly right of where shown in black&white topo - i.e. directly up the steep orange buttress of slightly overhanging rock.
See topo |
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