South Face

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

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West Couloir

Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, December 1937

Original Route

On the South face. An easy scramble up a left-slanting groove and across ledges to the South Peak.

Murray Judge, Dave Begg, Hugh Logan, Andrew Smith, 1974.

2

15 , 21 , 21 , 15

On the South face. Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. 1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	15	0m	Yes
	On the South face. Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. 1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.
2	21	0m	Yes
	3) 21. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof.
3	21	0m	Yes
	4) 21. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar
4	15	0m	Yes
	5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it. Descend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass.

Jonathon Clearwater, Thomas Evans, Feb, 2005.

This place appears in

2005