South Face

(3 routes)

The 300-metre-high south face of Taiaroa’s south peak rises steeply out of the Korako glacier approximately 300m right of Crampon Pass.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
South
Lat/Lon: 
-44.681309000000, 168.059619000000
NZMS260: 
D40 185 023
Topo50: 
CB09 085 406
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West Couloir
0
Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, December 1937
Original Route
0
On the South face. An easy scramble up a left-slanting groove and across ledges to the South Peak.
Murray Judge, Dave Begg, Hugh Logan, Andrew Smith, 1974.
2 Liquid Toasted Sandwich 15 , 21 , 21 , 15
0
wire representing trad
On the South face. Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. 1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1150mYes
 

On the South face.
Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face.
1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.

2210mYes
 

3) 21. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof.

3210mYes
 

4) 21. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar

4150mYes
 

5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it.
Descend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass.

Jonathon Clearwater, Thomas Evans, Feb, 2005.
Attribution: 
Craig Jefferies
UUID: 
3d4d0926-fbcd-48e6-ac1b-71a227bd10c2