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South Face

Type
Face
Part of
Taiaroa South Pk

The 300-metre-high south face of Taiaroa’s south peak rises steeply out of the Korako glacier approximately 300m right of Crampon Pass.

Aspect
South
Lat/lon
-44.681309,168.059619, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
CB09 085 406
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 West Couloir
0
 Original Route 0m
0
  • P1

On the South face.
An easy scramble up a left-slanting groove and across ledges to the South Peak.
2 2Liquid Toasted Sandwich, 21 21 0m
0
  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

On the South face.
Starting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face.
1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block.

  • P2
  • 21
  • Trad

    1. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof.

  • P3
  • 21
  • Trad

    1. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar

  • P4
  • 15
  • Trad

5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it.
Descend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass.
 Only the Righteous, 21 21 300m
0

Takes prominent corner systems in the face right of LTS. Classy movement and cracks but mossy. See topo. (FYI after speaking with Jonathan Clearwater - first ascnesionist- it appears LTS probably is slghtly right of where shown in black&white topo - i.e. directly up the steep orange buttress of slightly overhanging rock.

  • P1
  • 21
  • 300m
  • Trad

See topo
Comments
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
3d4d0926-fbcd-48e6-ac1b-71a227bd10c2