Grade
20,6,IV
Length
450m
0
Quality
First ascent
Bill McLeod, Chris Warburton, January 1997
Located on
Topo ref
M
Beginning on a small block, climb a clean face on the left side of the south-east facing concave wall. Higher up, tend left to gain a grassy groove beneath the great black corner and head straight up. On reaching the terrace, head up ledges to gain the headwall. Follow the arrow-straight corner/crack system that runs on a slight diagonal the entire height of this wall. The rock is compact and solid, predominantly vertical, but can be damp in places. Requires a positive attitude.
- P1
- 20
- Alpine (Technical) 6
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- 450m
Comments
UUID
6074bf9f-5131-4130-9c88-afbb0dc0b0ad
Upper route is Striking: very steep and straight crack (looks hand-sized) for maybe 3-4 pitches. Looks like potentially the best multipitch crack climb in NZ (no joke)... Except that it needs cleaned of grass. Letter from Bill Mcleod to Andy Macfarlane indicates that he excavated holds and gear placements on lead. If cleaned top-down this could be one of the countries greatest climbs. The rock quality can be superb on parts of this wall.