Mt Arrowsmith

This is perhaps the least technical route on Mt Arrowsmith. Most parties reach the head of
Moses Creek via Moses Rock, a domed bluff sitting on the true left of the creek. Moses Rock
can be reached from the Lawrence Valley via various routes, but most commonly by following a
scree gully immediately south of a patch of scrub about 1250 metres south of the creek draining
the south side of Moses Rock. Aim for Pt 1646 metres, then traverse north to the flat plateau
above Moses Rock. From here, climb the glacier at the head of Moses Creek. The upper section
of glacier can be reached by either a steep snow ramp (a rock step with rock fall late in the
season) or by climbing to a small col on the ridge south-east of Pt 2319 metres. Once at the col,
drop northwards over the ridge to sidle around the steep, lower part of the ridge, then head eastwards
onto the crest of the rock ridge and from here gain the upper glacier. The upper glacier
provides access to various gullies and loose rock ribs which lead to the North and South ridges
of Arrowsmith. Follow the ridge (exposed in places) for the final few metres to the summit.

The South West Ridge can be traversed from Ashburton Peak to the summit, turning two gendarmes
on the Lawrence side. Alternatively, the ridge can be reached directly from the Hakatere
River via snow slopes and small glaciers.

This is a snow and ice climb up a broad snow face followed by one of a number of gullies to the
summit of Mt Arrowsmith. From the moraines at the head of the Hakatere River climb to the
schrund at the bottom of the Ashburton Face. Climb a short, steep section alongside a steep
rock rib to gain the slope above. Climb until a small arête is reached, and from here either go left
to snow slopes and gullies that join the South West Ridge, or head up steeper rock directly to
the summit. Usually in condition only from late winter to early summer, and subject to rock fall.

A long route when attempted via East Horn, the first half of which is on poor rock. Alternatively,
reach the ridge via the South Cameron Glacier, climbing steep snow slopes to a col of rotten
rock on the East Ridge. A schrund 60–70 metres below the col may be passed on rock on the
left. Climb along the narrow ridge crest to reach the big outlier to the east of Mt Arrowsmith.
Climb the outlier on a wall of good rock, then scramble down and along the ridge on loose rock
to a rotten, narrow col. From here a steep section of friable rock leads to solid slabs and cracks
and then up three rock steps to the summit.

This route follows a series of good rock slabs, with two pitches up to grade 14, on the prominent
rock rib rising out of the South Cameron Glacier. Climb the second buttress, avoiding the toe
of the ridge, and top out on the main outlying peak on the East Ridge. This route provides good
access to the best (final) part of the East Ridge.

Follow the spur for approximately 6 pitches until you meet up with the original Cameron Buttress Route.

This is a direct route from the South Cameron Glacier that follows the main couloir to the
summit. It was the original descent route but is now the most common route to the summit.
In good snow conditions the climb is straightforward, but if snow is thin at least two major
rock steps may need to be negotiated, usually on the broad ledges and short walls to the right
of the couloir, and this will increase the grade of the climb. Once on the summit ridge scramble
around on the Lawrence side to the summit. The couloir is prone to bombardment from rock
and ice debris and usually is not a late season route. A second couloir, 200 metres further north
along the ridge, is also useable.